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Big 3 question


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Posted

follow all of your stock wires and see if any pass-through a ring like voltage clamp if you do then that is your problem and the added wire has to also pass-though that "most times you cant fit it though"..... if you removed the stock wire than that could also be the problem if there is no clamp

There is a plastic ring clip by negative terminal on battery is that what you mean. I did notice it and made a note thinking, hmmm wtf is that. Are you saying I need to make sure the negative from battery to alt passes through that ring?

So my computer is confused on how much voltage I'm running because the wire isn't technically on its radar?

Posted

That alternator wire u ran needs to go threw that stupid amp clamp sensor that goes off the battery

Ok, so just run the negative from battery to alt through that ring?

Posted

follow all of your stock wires and see if any pass-through a ring like voltage clamp if you do then that is your problem and the added wire has to also pass-though that "most times you cant fit it though"..... if you removed the stock wire than that could also be the problem if there is no clamp

I just went out and looked at that ring(battery current sensor). I see the stock ground passing through it going to my battery. I can't fit the 0 gauge through it unless I cut the stock ground and take it out of the ring then pass the 0 gauge through. There is a harness plugged into the ring, if I unplug that it isn't gonna stop the message from popping up right? Is it gonna hurt anything not messing with it right now, when summer rolls around I'll replace the battery terminals and pass the 0 gauge through that ring while i'm at it. Or does the stock wire have to be included in the ring.

Posted

no... you must pass the wire through this ring... if you cant fit a larger wire then you must delete this wire from the big 3 upgrade and just run the stock wire and take the loss.... unless someone finds a work-around which I have never read about on a GM car/truck

Posted

no... you must pass the wire through this ring... if you cant fit a larger wire then you must delete this wire from the big 3 upgrade and just run the stock wire and take the loss.... unless someone finds a work-around which I have never read about on a GM car/truck

I can get the 0 gauge through it I just need to take the stock engine ground out of it but I can still connect the stock ground to my battery it just won't be in the ring. If it comes down to it would replacing the run of 0 gauge from alt to batt with 4 gauge matter if I keep the other 2 of the big 3 0 gauge?People have totally replaced the stock wires during a big 3 so me swapping the wires in the ring shouldn't matter right? If I wanted to I could take the stock grounds completely out.

Posted

the stock wire must pass through this ring and any added wire so if you cant fit the wires then you have to delete this wire from the big 3 upgrade no way around it.... try it with a 4awg and stock wire and see if the light still comes on

Posted

i would strip the insulation off of the 1/0 neg and see if it could fit through the sensor, maybe shed a few strands if necessary.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
Posted

what doesnt make sense is, how does it measure the pull coming from the alt straight to a rear battery bank and amps? Unless the alt case is somehow isolated from the engine and only grounds through the battery, which would be excessively complicated.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
Posted

just thinking outload to myself here. I guess if the alt is always turned off and when current is drawn from the battery it triggers the alt to come on and charge a little bit it could work. Then everything would be running primarily on batt power vs alt power and the bank of batteries wouldnt get charged by the alt...sorta. 2nd alt or external regulator maybe. I have to assume someone has tried to crack open the sensor and attempted to just make the ring bigger...

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db

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