Jump to content

Big 3 question


Recommended Posts

Posted

Should I go from my alternator bracket to strut tower or alternator bracket to negative post on battery. I'm already going positive to alternator and negative on battery to strut tower.

Posted

There is a pinned thread on how to do the big three upgrade... How i did mine is i replace my factory 4ga with bigger wire in the same location.

Posted

There is a pinned thread on how to do the big three upgrade... How i did mine is i replace my factory 4ga with bigger wire in the same location.

I cant find my engine to chassis ground. I just wanna know if there's a better option between the 2 spots.

Posted

I did alt not the alt bracket straight to battery and block to frame to battery

what ever you choose do not remove any factory wires while doing this

and for best ground you should avoid strut towers... way too many welds connecting those pieces together you may not have any problems but there are alot of places that are better

Posted

So this is what I ended up with.Positive to alt, Negative on battery to strut tower, I grinded to bare metal then applied a spray of clear coat afterwards to prevent rust. Then alt bracket to battery negative. I also didn't add a inline fuse, I decided against it after watching a video explaining it's not necessary if you have the wire zip tied neatly out of the way of any major heat or sharp metal causing it to short.

a>

a>

a>

Posted

I think you did a good job. Just remember the big three upgrade is only beneficial if you have upgraded your alternator. Say your ALT wire is a factory 8ga or 4 ga going from a stock 100 amp ALT to a HO 240 amp ALT the charging current is going to flow better through 1/0 than the factory wire. When adding amplifiers, upgrading ur grounds is always a good idea because runing 1/0 to ur amp and having factory 4ga grounds the current is having to bottle neck down. And of course you want to choose ur power and ground wire depending on your amplifier. It doesnt make sense (money wise) to run a 1/0 power and ground to ur amp if its a 1000 watt when 4 gauge is plently sufficent. Just my .02 the big three is only for better current flow, if u have dimming lights you need to upgrade the ALT or batteries, the big three in itself wont cure that alone.

Posted

Does the car have a frame.or unibody? On my Tiburon that was unibody Ik did alt positive to battery. Alt mount to battery ground . engine ground to battery negative. Battery negative to shock tower . Clean all connections with wirewheel and dielectric greased all connections. If car has frame use frame instead of shock tower mount.

On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said:

Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science...

Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/

2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/

2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 959 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...