Floyd341 Posted March 27, 2016 Report Posted March 27, 2016 Gotta question about doing the big 3. The cable from battery to my Alternator is just going to the Alnernator Bracket, it isn't going to the Alternator? Then Ground to Frame, and then Ground to Engine Block? It has me stumped because it's an older truck, and there isn't a cable going to the Alternator, just the bracket. What do I do?
RooTxBeeR Posted March 27, 2016 Report Posted March 27, 2016 Follow the other wires off of the alt and see where they end up. Edit: That one off the battery tot he alt bracket, is connected to ground right? On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Miguels Posted March 27, 2016 Report Posted March 27, 2016 for ground? for ground not many have that run to it you have to add it.. if you mean power yes it has one but it like 8 gauge or smaller.. if you havent upgraded the alternator the big 3 wont help.. i think those came with a 65a maybe 85a alternator.. my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 27, 2016 Report Posted March 27, 2016 Gotta question about doing the big 3. The cable from battery to my Alternator is just going to the Alnernator Bracket, it isn't going to the Alternator? Then Ground to Frame, and then Ground to Engine Block? It has me stumped because it's an older truck, and there isn't a cable going to the Alternator, just the bracket. What do I do? You have to have a charge lead coming off of your alternator. So for aftermarket electrical stuff this is how you want to do big 3. Pay close attention. Add to existing charge lead from alt + to batt + Battery neg to frame. As short of a run as you can manage. And alt case to frame. The last one is where alot of people fuck up. The idea is to allow for the most efficient flow of electrons to and from the alternator. So an engine ground isnt the most efficient way to do it although in a few circumstances a ground to the alt case is a PITA. Kepp all of your grounds (including amp grounds etc) on the same side of the vehicle. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
RooTxBeeR Posted March 27, 2016 Report Posted March 27, 2016 for ground? for ground not many have that run to it you have to add it.. if you mean power yes it has one but it like 8 gauge or smaller.. if you havent upgraded the alternator the big 3 wont help.. i think those came with a 65a maybe 85a alternator.. Big 3 will always help regardless if it's a stock alt or not. As long as you are not exceeding what the alt can put out. I had a stock 60a alt in my civic, but all I had was a mbquart 500 watt amp, which I bet probably only put out less than 400 watts. So when I did big 3, was a huge change is idle and charging voltage. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 27, 2016 Report Posted March 27, 2016 for ground? for ground not many have that run to it you have to add it.. if you mean power yes it has one but it like 8 gauge or smaller.. if you havent upgraded the alternator the big 3 wont help.. i think those came with a 65a maybe 85a alternator.. Doing the big 3 might not help achieve higher voltage etc. but it can certainly take some stress off of the alternator. OP, the idea of the big 3 isn't to make your alternator more powerful, its to bring out the maximum potential of what you have. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
Floyd341 Posted March 27, 2016 Author Report Posted March 27, 2016 So, Alternator pos to Battery pos Alternator bracket to frame Battery neg to frame Is this the correct order?
RooTxBeeR Posted March 27, 2016 Report Posted March 27, 2016 So, Alternator pos to Battery pos Alternator bracket to frame Battery neg to frame Is this the correct order? Yup. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 28, 2016 Report Posted March 28, 2016 So, Alternator pos to Battery pos Alternator bracket to frame Battery neg to frame Is this the correct order? The order that you do them in doesn't matter. Youre going to do it all in one shot anyways. And that's the bare minimum I would do. I usually do an engine to frame and frame to firewall (to help oem components in the dash) in addition to that. Also, remember you are adding to the stock wiring, not replacing it. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
Floyd341 Posted March 28, 2016 Author Report Posted March 28, 2016 What do you mean not replacing it? Current wires are I think 8 gauge. I want to go to 4 gauge. Also, my work uses the copper hammer on style terminals, will that be sufficient for the upgrade, and heat shrink the ends.
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