rockFord_Expedition Posted March 28, 2016 Report Posted March 28, 2016 What do you mean not replacing it? Current wires are I think 8 gauge. I want to go to 4 gauge. Also, my work uses the copper hammer on style terminals, will that be sufficient for the upgrade, and heat shrink the ends. I mean that leave the oem wires in place, just add extra runs to it. So you'll have the 4ga and 8ga. Not just 4ga. Don't use hammer on crimps. If you're crimping anything larger than 8ga then use a hydraulic crimper. I'm going to redo my crimp thread. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
Floyd341 Posted March 28, 2016 Author Report Posted March 28, 2016 I don't have access to a hydraulic crimper. I didn't the the hammer crimps would be the way to go. Another alternative?
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 28, 2016 Report Posted March 28, 2016 I don't have access to a hydraulic crimper. I didn't the the hammer crimps would be the way to go. Another alternative? The cheap ones are cheap and easy to find. Just google 16 ton hydraulic crimper. Easy to find. You can see what they do if you click on the link in my sig. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
RooTxBeeR Posted March 28, 2016 Report Posted March 28, 2016 You could also use a vice grip, put a terminal in it, blast it with a torch, once it's hot. Put the wire in and solder away. What I always have done. Works well. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Floyd341 Posted March 28, 2016 Author Report Posted March 28, 2016 I'll soder the Terminals, didn't think of that really. Thanks...
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 29, 2016 Report Posted March 29, 2016 You could also use a vice grip, put a terminal in it, blast it with a torch, once it's hot. Put the wire in and solder away. What I always have done. Works well. I read vice grip and almost went bat shit crazy until I realized that you were telling him to solder lol. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
RooTxBeeR Posted March 29, 2016 Report Posted March 29, 2016 You could also use a vice grip, put a terminal in it, blast it with a torch, once it's hot. Put the wire in and solder away. What I always have done. Works well. I read vice grip and almost went bat shit crazy until I realized that you were telling him to solder lol. Lmfao nahhhh dude. Vice grip to crimp, best method ever! My car hasn't burned down yet lol. Please don't do that OP. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Floyd341 Posted March 29, 2016 Author Report Posted March 29, 2016 You shouldn't need to crimp. The way I do the solder at work is just melt the solder right into the terminal, and then stick the lead into the terminal, it pretty well solid doing it that way. It ensures solder is inside, and all the way around, rather than just soldering around the outside.
Floyd341 Posted April 3, 2016 Author Report Posted April 3, 2016 So, I have checked everything. The positive lead goes to the starter, not the alternator. Would this still make a difference if I upgraded the cable going to the starter? I'm gonna trace the lead going from the alternator to see where it goes as well.
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