Dreko44 Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 I would like to know what (200 Amp Battery Relay Isolater Wiring Kit) that is. here is a link http://ngvi.ebay.com/vi?ngvi&backtoid=...5SIkOq9uZNAM%3D Is that an option rather than getting another alternator? If i have 2 batteries (KINETIK HC2400 or Stinger SP1500D Power2) along with my main battery under the hood. (KINETIK HC1800) And my system will be a 500w 4 channel, and 3200w xxv collossus hi fonics amp pushing 2 FI 15 BL subwoofers. will i need a alternator as well? or will the batteries be sufficient? Or could i use that isolator wiring kit? Just need some advising on electrical specifics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron813 Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 Do you already have a ho alt if not i would get one and you should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreko44 Posted April 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 I do not have an alternator yet. I was wondering if i could aviod it? Or is it the best solution? And if i get the alternator, do i still need the 2 high output batteries as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron813 Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 I would keep all three batteries and get an alt In my car right now i have a 220 amp alternator and 1 optima yellow top upfront and 1 Kinetik HC2400 in the back. I am running 1 Hifonics XX Thor and it does fine. I also have done the Big 3 upgrade all my wiring is 0/1 kollous cable i would highly recommend getting a high output alternator you could do more damage to your factory alternator since it will be struggling to charger up all the batteries. Im not using an isolator for my system. Do you plan on using the system with the car off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 before I ever even looked at the link I knew it was stinger and that one is a bit high in price. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5297 Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreko44 Posted April 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 No, i don't plan using the system with the car off. I also cant find a good alternator for anything more than 160 amps for my car i have a 2000 dodge Durango SLT, and i would like to keep the price down low if i can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darvex Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 I'm the one that actually sells that kit listed. I have it on ebay and on our site http://www.darvex.com It's just a simple and safe way to add a 2nd battery. If you have an alternator between 85 and 200 amps it's a good kit. Also, if you have two batteries that aren't matched it allows the charging system to charge each accordingly. If you need just the relay it's 44.50, if you need all the fuseholders, connectors, and wire I have it posted on the link you provided. Anyway, If you need a diagram and instructions with some explanations as to how and why this is a safe way to do this let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrrairai Posted April 22, 2008 Report Share Posted April 22, 2008 before I ever even looked at the link I knew it was stinger and that one is a bit high in price.http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5297 That's really not high priced. The link you gave only have the solenoid but the link my man posted comes with wire, fuse holders, etc. Quote Member since 25 Jun 2006 2011 Yukon DenaliCustomLightz 4300K HID RetrofitEsky TailsEsky Third BrakeEsky 22sEsky Appliques Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sully Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 That is a PAC200 relay with a Stinger sticker on it. You can get it for 35-40 bucks as long as you dont go to a car audio shop to get it (they charge as much as $99). I have purchased several items from darvex, he will shoot you straight and has ok pricing. You don't need one unless you just want one. I have one on my truck but it is only because i had a couple laying around the shop that were not being used. It will isolate your batteries only when the ignition is off. When you start the vehicle it doesn't charge them separately, it just links the two together like you had them direct hardwired together. I would just fuse the pos wire between the two batteries, one fuse within 18 inches of each battery for safety. Quote 2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's 2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine. 2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's 2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darvex Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 (edited) Yeah, PAC and Stinger buy these relays from the same US manufacture. It's the same thing. Hey, here's a little more info on why I like using the relay set up. The info below is copied directly off the tech section on Stinger's site. First, no two batteries are exactly alike. Because of this, they will slowly discharge each other when connected together. Installation of the SR200 will allow simultaneous charging, but will separate the batteries while the vehicle is not running. Secondly, if there should be a battery failure while connected to the bank no discharge of the good batteries will take place. This is because they will only be connected while the vehicle is charging (running). Compaired with the cost of high quality batteries, the SR200 could be considered a very inexpensive insurance plan for your precious power supply. Edited April 24, 2008 by darvex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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