ShadeTreeMechanic Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Transistors make that noise when they are under a lot of power. I have heard 24VDC power supplies scream like that when they are loaded sometimes. I had a 12v power supply one time that had a shorted crow bar transistor that caused the main power transistors scream. The intermittent nature leads me to believe that there is a bad solider joint in your amp that causes the FETs to bias incorrectly and scream. You can run it to failure or pull it and have it checked. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 If I were to pull it and check, would I be able to tell just by looking at it? Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MADVIBES Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 I am sorry for the confusion, I was referring to the head unit and or any other unit that has signal passing through it. on your system have a direct ground and power ran from the battery. DB DRAG PSYCHLONE PRO 156.3 30 SECOND AVERAGE FO MAX AT 26HZ LEGAL DASH DRIVER DOOR OPEN 158.0@30 HZ MY BEST SO FAR, HOPEFULLY A 160 COME FEBUARY. 156.9@26hz 158.0@30hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 You might see where a solider joint or a component got hot but sometimes there is nothing to see. Capacitors with a swollen top is a sign they are hurt. Having an amp mounted to the box can crack a joint or a trace and it would be so small you would never see it. Back in the day I repaired intermittent cell phones by reflowing all the solider joints and most of the time that cured them. If you run it to failure, the cost to fix it will go up. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 I am sorry for the confusion, I was referring to the head unit and or any other unit that has signal passing through it. on your system have a direct ground and power ran from the battery. Ok, so your saying to wire the headunit directly to the battery, and avoid using the wiring harness? i could give that a shot, but i have a Q90-4 and that has no noise coming from it. You might see where a solider joint or a component got hot but sometimes there is nothing to see. Capacitors with a swollen top is a sign they are hurt. Having an amp mounted to the box can crack a joint or a trace and it would be so small you would never see it. Back in the day I repaired intermittent cell phones by reflowing all the solider joints and most of the time that cured them. If you run it to failure, the cost to fix it will go up. I will take it out when i get some free time and give the insides a look. Will report back if i find something. Thank you all for your input Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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