notorious97200 Posted June 3, 2016 Report Posted June 3, 2016 M'y CX-5 alt "gives" me around 12.5 v. It goes up to 14-15.... For a few minutes sometimes. When the batts are fully charged, i can stay one day at 14.4 v. black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp OEM head unit, Amplifiers : Audison AP 8.9 with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200. Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats. 2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a sealed box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.
BoomZoom808 Posted June 3, 2016 Report Posted June 3, 2016 M'y CX-5 alt "gives" me around 12.5 v. It goes up to 14-15.... For a few minutes sometimes. When the batts are fully charged, i can stay one day at 14.4 v. I think this is actually reversed your alt would be at 14.4v if it is turned up to full output, once the battery's are charged it would drop down to 13.8 to maintain the charge. My voltage is usually around 13.8-13.7 driving around at normal listening levels and I top off my battery's with a 6 amp trickle charger on top of letting the alt charge them. 2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS Knu OFC 1/0 SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750 Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5 IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12
GeorgeDCenergy Posted June 15, 2016 Report Posted June 15, 2016 PY1C-18-300 is the 150A version of your 100A alternator
BoomZoom808 Posted June 16, 2016 Report Posted June 16, 2016 PY1C-18-300 is the 150A version of your 100A alternator If the PCM doesnt allow any more current than its 50 wasted amps? 2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS Knu OFC 1/0 SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750 Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5 IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12
Twiztedlemon Posted June 16, 2016 Author Report Posted June 16, 2016 Wow thanks, I'll look it up! I've found the diesel one, but I'll research that one! And my understanding of the ecu/pcm/ and voltage regulator... Is they all work hand in hand to control the power grid. If not much supply. Is needed, they work together and limit the altenator, then the flip side is if you need alot they all ramp the alternator up for business. Pcm just helps protect the cars battery from over / under charging Unless I'm wrong. Which please do enlighten me.
GeorgeDCenergy Posted June 17, 2016 Report Posted June 17, 2016 The PY1C fits the Mazda 3, 6 & CR-5. Should drop right in and work fine.
BoomZoom808 Posted June 17, 2016 Report Posted June 17, 2016 The PY1C fits the Mazda 3, 6 & CR-5. Should drop right in and work fine. OP sorry for the thread jack but GeorgeDCenergy - Can you give us more info? I am researching it and from what I find it fits 2014-2015 models and it comes with iEloop? I have a 2010 2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS Knu OFC 1/0 SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750 Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5 IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12
Twiztedlemon Posted June 17, 2016 Author Report Posted June 17, 2016 So while this is the ieloop it should work just fine with my cx5 which does not have the ieloop setup right?
GeorgeDCenergy Posted June 23, 2016 Report Posted June 23, 2016 I did not catch the ieloop functionality. Mazda claims that it has a special variable regulator to transfer electricity to the capacitor. That regulator may not work with a standard charging system. Sorry I may have mislead you. I could only tell for sure if I had both alternators in hand and was able to run some tests.
notorious97200 Posted July 17, 2016 Report Posted July 17, 2016 So there is nothing I can do in my CX-5 to strongly upgrade the electrical? I already did the big3 and have 2 batteries. black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp OEM head unit, Amplifiers : Audison AP 8.9 with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200. Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats. 2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a sealed box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.
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