Can I fit 2 18's?

[RooTxBeeR]

Here let me re say lol, I was really baked the night I posted this so it's just rambling. My current box is 19.5D x40.5W x24H. It is all in a 04 ford escape. My max dimension are this, 25D x41 or 42W(have not taken off plastics to see how much more I can gain) x34H. That dimension is with the box, completely slammed against the hatch, so my question is, with the hatch making a curve, would it choke the port? If you put a box with max depth in, if you put a port at the bottom of the box. There would be around 3-5in of width between the box and hatch. But once you get to the top of the box, there could be as little as .5in, so would that cause any problems? I as well want to know what port area would be required on 2 x 18's running 3k-3.5k of power. I have a design with 150sqin of port area with sub/port up, I cannot go any wider on the port due to no more room on the baffle it is on.

[Wasteland_Audio]

Ah, that made way more sense lol. Give me a bit and i'll figure something out for you.

[Wasteland_Audio]

This is about the best I could come up with with how small the back end of those things are. I made the port fire up so you could use the full depth of the rear end and not choke off the port. The box comes out to about 10.25ft^3 tuned to 32hz. Hope this helps.

[RooTxBeeR]

The subs in question have a outside diameter of 18.69in, is that what you had used? I actually never thought of doing the port like that, always thought in between the subs, that looks like it might work. I am still looking for the port area they require though.

[Wasteland_Audio]

The cutouts are 16.75" diameter, which is pretty much what all 18" subs use for a cutout hole. From the sides of the baffle to the center of the hole is exactly 9.75". With this design it still gives you just under 150in^2 of port area and still keeps you within 41" wide. You'll be ok with this amount of port if you still plan on running 3k - 3.5k on both subs, once you start getting into the 5k - 6k range tho you'll need closer to 200in^2. Just make sure that before you build this box you make sure that A - you can actually fit it through the hatch, and B - that the hatch doesn't curve so much that it will hit the top of the port when you go yo close it. Honestly tho this design should be much louder than the box you're running now. More cone area, more port, and more power.

[RooTxBeeR]

The cutouts are 16.75" diameter, which is pretty much what all 18" subs use for a cutout hole. From the sides of the baffle to the center of the hole is exactly 9.75". With this design it still gives you just under 150in^2 of port area and still keeps you within 41" wide. You'll be ok with this amount of port if you still plan on running 3k - 3.5k on both subs, once you start getting into the 5k - 6k range tho you'll need closer to 200in^2. Just make sure that before you build this box you make sure that A - you can actually fit it through the hatch, and B - that the hatch doesn't curve so much that it will hit the top of the port when you go yo close it. Honestly tho this design should be much louder than the box you're running now. More cone area, more port, and more power.

If it's the same width as what I have no, it can slide in no problem. As far as it hitting the hatch, I have 26in of total depth, but depending on height, it may hit the actuator arms for the hatch window. Thanks a bunch.