Wasteland_Audio

It is fairly common for people to exceed recommended enclosure size to boost output of a subwoofer. However, you do run the risk of exceeding the subs mechanical limit and causing serious damage. The more power you run to a subwoofer, the smaller the enclosure must be to keep the cone under control. Since you will be running these subs under rated power, you should be ok making the enclosure slightly larger than recommended and be fine, plus you will see a decent rise in output over the same setup in a smaller box.

33hz will be fine for that. I personally tune in the high 20s but i listen to nothing but bass boosted/decaf music in the low to mid 20hz range. As long as you try to avoid super low music it'll be cool.

It wouldn't hurt anything or even change the tuning much narrowing it an inch, so no problems there. I did notice that we never discussed your desired tuning tho. Right now the design is tuned to 33hz. If you want it lower than that I can redesign the enclosure and if you want it higher just take an inch or two off the length.

The same thing happened to me with sonic except the sent me a dual 1 ohm sub and a dual 2 ohm sub together.

To answer your question, yes your tensioner pulley will move when you rev the engine, that is normal.

I've been running a stock autozone belt for almost a year now with a mechman 370 and it still looks fine. It's about an inch shorter than stock and the tensioner pully is pretty much maxed and still not a whole lot of wear. I honestly wouldn't worry about it, and if you are still concerned just get one of those green belts from napa, they're more expensive but last twice as long.

The M4 has the new machined basket tho right? Both mine have the old 6 spoke basket that you can buy anywhere. Would that mean that they are both M2s? yours could still be m3 motors. post picks and we can go from there. regardless you will have to upgrade to the new basket Ok well i'll be pulling them out tomorrow and i'll post some pics.

The M4 has the new machined basket tho right? Both mine have the old 6 spoke basket that you can buy anywhere. Would that mean that they are both M2s?

Bump

So it finally happened, I popped one of my subs. While I was looking for a recone i noticed that Droppin Hz only sells M1, M2, and M4 kits. When i went to make sure of which one i had i noticed that i may just have one M2 and one M3. Here is a picture of my original order, when i received the subs, one was a dual 2 ohm and one was a dual 1 ohm. I notified sonic electronics and they told me that the subs had been discontinued shortly after i had placed my order. Thankfully they contacted DC and they were awesome enough to build me the discontinued model i needed to match the current one i had. Now notice on the second pic, it clearly states that it is the M3 model, where as the original order says M2. I guess my main questions are one, can anyone make sence of this? Two, how do i tell which is which? And three, will an M3 model accept an M2 recone?

A DC 2k is worth that much because it actually puts out a true 2000 watts rms at 12.6 volts, which amps that are half the price do not. Look trough enough build logs, the amount of people running DC amps should speak for the quality of these amps.

what would be the point of that? i guess the easy answer is hellll no. FUCK no. lol I don't blame you honestly, that's a chunk of change to put under the hz hammer. Sick build tho man.

So you're gonna put a bigger system in this that your Tahoe, right? lol

19427

No problem, and it's right around 32hz. make it a little longer if you want it lower.

Port length is 18.5". It's 49" wide but i know for sure it'll fit because that's how wide my box is. It comes out to 12.5cuft after displacement

whoops i thought it was only 1, my bad lol. I have 2 level 6 18s in my suburban and the box i built is a bottom slot port and it works pretty well. how far is it between the 2nd row and the hatch on a tahoe? i could figure something out for you, i don't charge lol

Sub up, port back is gonna be the loudest 95% of the time, with a single sub in a tahoe tho you could probably get away with both firing back and not make a huge difference. Just don't fire both port and sub up, it will sound horrible.

Hell with everything set properly you should be able to get the full output of that amp to those subs no problem. A common misconseption with setting gains is that it directly controls how many watts are coming out of the amp, this is not true. Setting gain is matching the amps input RCA voltage to the head units output RCA voltage, at least thats how it's been explained to me. Setting the gain too high will induce clipping, which means the signal (think of it as a sound wave) has flat spots at the top and bottom of the wave, which will then transfer through the amp and into the sub. Keep in mind that there is a lot more to it and frankly i'm no expert, there are people on here that are a lot more knowledgable and can give you a much better explaination.

I wouldn't be scared to run a 10k on those. The rms rating on DC subs is pretty conservative, just make sure your gain is set perfectly or you will destroy the coils.

Boom, ordered

well i'll give it a try and let you know how it turns out in the morning, i'm gonna be ears deep in it all night

o right the one on the outside edge, it's ok, if it fucks my baffle up i'll just throw another layer on and pretend it didn't happen, but should i flip the mounting ring? and would the holes be big enough for the surround not to rub? sorry i'm sitting here staring at them in the back of my burban and want to try it lol

No inset, just flat on top. And a lip on the cone side or motor side of the mounting ring?

A buddy of mine put 2 12" kickers and 2 15" xplodes in the back of his cloth top Suzuki Samuri when we were like 15. Best time ever lol.