Wasteland_Audio

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About Wasteland_Audio

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  • Birthday 03/31/1991

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    Wyoming
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    Da speaker feel goods in your ear hole, comrade?

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  1. Actually the original idea for this one was a single Dayton HO 10" built into the cabinet at 22hz, but due to budget issues i can do 2 lower power 8s for cheaper (I'm trying to keep it under $400 for everything). The reason i want to do a full range center is the room this will be in is absolutely terrible for a surround application so i need the full range of sound coming from the TV, otherwise if i do a separate sub enclosure the bass would be coming from the right side of the room.
  2. So I've been needing a new TV stand for quite some time now. The current one i have is just some cheapo wal-mart one and it can no longer hold all of my gaming systems and other equipment. I've always wanted to try incorporating a 3 way stereo including subs but all of my previous designs were a little over kill (4 high power 10s in a 4th order). This time i decided to be a bit more conservative. This design uses two 8 inch 100 watt rms subs each in their own 1.87ft^3 ported enclosure tuned to 24hz. I plan to run a small 250 watt rms plate amp to power them. I was wondering if i could get some input from the home audio guys and let me know if this would work well or if i should just give up on the whole integrated sub thing. Thanks for reading!
  3. ..... I don't even know what to say to that. The level of human stupidity never ceases to amaze me.... lol
  4. Honestly you're probably good with just 2 runs. I'm running double that power on a 370 mechman with 2 runs of sky high 1/0 with no problems.
  5. For this application I would just stick with a slot port. If you were planning on doing any kind of serious competing then i would lean more that way. However for the sake of daily listening and cleaner install i would suggest slot port all day.
  6. this particular design is with both facing back, i wasn't sure if you left any room in your dimensions for this but if not it wouldn't be hard to rearrange it for both pointing up or sub up, port back setup. I have to go to work but i'll be able to redraw it later today.
  7. Hey thanks for the quick input guys. I definitely agree with waiting on the Ryzen after doing a little research into it as i would much prefer to run AMD over intel. I think i would probably need more ram as i have been experimenting with making mods and you need to have around 4 or 5 pretty heavy programs running at once to make it easier. As far as budget goes i would like to keep it around $2k which i can completely dedicate to the pc itself. I already have a really nice razer chroma keyboard and mouse paired with a 28" 1080p monitor.
  8. With that amp you could run a DC Level 4 18" with those specs. DC's are known for using small enclosures and these ones in particular need around 5.5ft^3. The design here comes out to 5.2 but that shouldn't lose you any noticable output.
  9. Wow, that's a really clean build man.
  10. I was thinking the same thing as Triticum. Take home theater subs for example, they are designed to play a much wider bandwidth than most car audio builds. If you look at the tuning of most custom home enclosures you will find a lot of times they are tuned to between 17 to 25hz. This allows them to recreate deep tones such as earthquakes and explosions in movies much better while still allowing them to hit higher 50 - 60hz tones and still be within their tuning parameters. However, tuning for a wide bandwidth in a vehicle is much more difficult because, unlike home audio in large, open rooms, you have to account for cabin gain as well which can greatly reduce the top and bottom ends of your frequency range. I personally have some experience with this as my previous enclosure was tuned to 27hz with a pair of DC Level 6 18s. I feel that this was a perfect tuning for what you are trying to achieve, you just have to make absolutely sure you know what you are doing when it comes to setting your crossovers, gains, etc. I learned this the hard way after burning the leads off my spider due to over excursion and improper gain settings, but after setting everything properly it was still painfully loud at around 25hz and still very well balanced when playing metal, dubstep, and so on. So hopefully this gives you a little more insight on achieving your tuning goals.
  11. Well here's what we have picked out so far: Corsair Carbide Spec-Alpha tower AMD FX-8370 Black edition w/ Wraith Cooler ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 Board Ripjaws V series RAM (32gb) GTX 1080 Strix Graphics Seagate 2tb Firecuda SSHD Corsair CX850M power supply I'm pretty noob when it comes to building a pc so i really don't even know if this will all work together and what else i'll need. I currently run a pre built cybertron that does ok but doesn't quite run some games at the settings and speed i would like (My heavily modded Fallout 4 has rendering and frame rate issues i've traced to hardware limitations for example). So yea any input you could give would be greatly appreciated!
  12. I showed my girlfriend this thread and she wants you to build her a rig now lol.
  13. Here's what i have made up for the new dimensions. Sorry for making the last design so complicated but i didn't realize the trunk had an uneven floor. Anyway this ups your final volume to 5.36 cubes and puts your tuning right around 42.4hz which will be about perfect for a 4 door sedan. Most of the internal bracing you see is just a suggestion if you decide to run more power to your subs, however the 2 braces against the inside of the baffle i highly recommend because of the size of the holes cut into it, it will flex. I also suggest sealing the baffle off from the trunk so you aren't wasting pressure from air getting behind the box into the trunk instead of the cabin. Check the measurements when you get a chance and let me know if this will work.
  14. Ok so runing the depth out to 23 will definitely work for volume, let me modify the design a but and i'll post it here in a bit.
  15. Ok so here is the new baffle design. This is based off audible engineering's 8" aero kit because in my opinion they make some of the best ports out there. You are going to have to chop the port down some tho because you need it at 8" long and the shortest they make is 12". Also when you mount it in the box it will have to stick out about 2.5" to clear the surround of the subs because they are mounted so close together. Get me those pics of the trunk and what not whenever you can and i'll be able to see how i need to modify the box to fit better.