DLHgn Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Posted July 2, 2016 Idk about that, i foresee loading issues of your passenger side sub with that design. That's what I was worried about
Wasteland_Audio Posted July 2, 2016 Report Posted July 2, 2016 Idk about that, i foresee loading issues of your passenger side sub with that design. That's what I was worried about Yea just because that is a large, flat surface that close to the cone. have you considered using 1/2 inch all thread for bracing?
DLHgn Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Posted July 2, 2016 Yea just because that is a large, flat surface that close to the cone. have you considered using 1/2 inch all thread for bracing? Idk what that is.
Wasteland_Audio Posted July 2, 2016 Report Posted July 2, 2016 Yea just because that is a large, flat surface that close to the cone. have you considered using 1/2 inch all thread for bracing? Idk what that is. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-5-8-in-x-36-in-Zinc-Plated-All-Thread-Rod-ATR5-8X36ZP/205330040 Just drill holes in the sides of the box you want to brace, slide the rods through, put some nuts and washers on, and crank them down. It's just as strong as wood bracing and takes up a lot less volume.
DLHgn Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Posted July 2, 2016 Yea just because that is a large, flat surface that close to the cone. have you considered using 1/2 inch all thread for bracing? Idk what that is. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-5-8-in-x-36-in-Zinc-Plated-All-Thread-Rod-ATR5-8X36ZP/205330040 Just drill holes in the sides of the box you want to brace, slide the rods through, put some nuts and washers on, and crank them down. It's just as strong as wood bracing and takes up a lot less volume. How would it work if the back panel is against the back wall of the cab? And same with the bottom?
Wasteland_Audio Posted July 2, 2016 Report Posted July 2, 2016 Yea just because that is a large, flat surface that close to the cone. have you considered using 1/2 inch all thread for bracing? Idk what that is. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-5-8-in-x-36-in-Zinc-Plated-All-Thread-Rod-ATR5-8X36ZP/205330040 Just drill holes in the sides of the box you want to brace, slide the rods through, put some nuts and washers on, and crank them down. It's just as strong as wood bracing and takes up a lot less volume. How would it work if the back panel is against the back wall of the cab? And same with the bottom? You have a point, maybe cut a hole in the plastic and carpet where the nuts would sit? After you cut the excess off they should only stick out 3/8" or so.
DLHgn Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Posted July 2, 2016 Yea just because that is a large, flat surface that close to the cone. have you considered using 1/2 inch all thread for bracing? Idk what that is. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-5-8-in-x-36-in-Zinc-Plated-All-Thread-Rod-ATR5-8X36ZP/205330040 Just drill holes in the sides of the box you want to brace, slide the rods through, put some nuts and washers on, and crank them down. It's just as strong as wood bracing and takes up a lot less volume. How would it work if the back panel is against the back wall of the cab? And same with the bottom? You have a point, maybe cut a hole in the plastic and carpet where the nuts would sit? After you cut the excess off they should only stick out 3/8" or so. Also, the front face is at an angle. What if I just do top and bottom as the bar and leave the front to back as the wood?
Wasteland_Audio Posted July 2, 2016 Report Posted July 2, 2016 Yea just because that is a large, flat surface that close to the cone. have you considered using 1/2 inch all thread for bracing? Idk what that is. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-5-8-in-x-36-in-Zinc-Plated-All-Thread-Rod-ATR5-8X36ZP/205330040 Just drill holes in the sides of the box you want to brace, slide the rods through, put some nuts and washers on, and crank them down. It's just as strong as wood bracing and takes up a lot less volume. How would it work if the back panel is against the back wall of the cab? And same with the bottom? You have a point, maybe cut a hole in the plastic and carpet where the nuts would sit? After you cut the excess off they should only stick out 3/8" or so. Also, the front face is at an angle. What if I just do top and bottom as the bar and leave the front to back as the wood? That should work, as long as it gets rid of that flat surface behind that sub you should be good.
DLHgn Posted July 2, 2016 Author Report Posted July 2, 2016 That should work, as long as it gets rid of that flat surface behind that sub you should be good.So like this?
Wasteland_Audio Posted July 2, 2016 Report Posted July 2, 2016 I would put the rod straight through the bracing as well to keep them from wanting to move.
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