Shibby Posted November 30, 2006 Report Posted November 30, 2006 I am wanting to upgrade my big three to 0 gauge and also run a 0 gauge wire to my amp. Do I have to put two wire runs and two fuse holders going to the positive side of the battery (one to the amp and one from the alternator) or can I have a one foot long 0 gauge wire coming out of the battery to a fused distribution block then one 0 gauge wire coming out of the block to the amp and one to the alternator. Meade you did something like this on the honda but I am not sure if it was the same thing. I guess I dont really know if the one wire from the battery to the block can handle both loads. Thanks for your help, hope I was not that confusing. Quote
dmanson Posted December 1, 2006 Report Posted December 1, 2006 sounds like it shouldn't hurt anything but we'll both wait on other opinions, that's a good question though. Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module
ChevyBoy Posted December 1, 2006 Report Posted December 1, 2006 go with a wire from the alt to the battery fused on the battery side. then go with the battery to the amp, fused within 18" of the battery. he did what i just said, but he ran 2 2/0 positives and negatives back. so 4 total Quote
Dale Posted December 1, 2006 Report Posted December 1, 2006 I am wanting to upgrade my big three to 0 gauge and also run a 0 gauge wire to my amp. Do I have to put two wire runs and two fuse holders going to the positive side of the battery (one to the amp and one from the alternator) or can I have a one foot long 0 gauge wire coming out of the battery to a fused distribution block then one 0 gauge wire coming out of the block to the amp and one to the alternator. Meade you did something like this on the honda but I am not sure if it was the same thing. I guess I dont really know if the one wire from the battery to the block can handle both loads. Thanks for your help, hope I was not that confusing. To be on the safe side, I would fuse them independently. Especially the power wire going to the amp. To make things a little more effective I would also move the wire going to the amp closer to the alternator (fused of course). That might make a slight difference in voltage...on the +ive side. That's optional of course. Here's a little diagram if I'm being confusing: Quote
ChevyBoy Posted December 1, 2006 Report Posted December 1, 2006 connect it from ur battery to ur amps, not ur alt to ur amps. Quote
Ernesto Posted December 1, 2006 Report Posted December 1, 2006 connect it from ur battery to ur amps, [glow=red,2,300]not ur alt to ur amps.[/glow]x2...Connect it to the batteries located by the amp (if any). Quote
Dale Posted December 1, 2006 Report Posted December 1, 2006 connect it from ur battery to ur amps, [glow=red,2,300]not ur alt to ur amps.[/glow]x2...Connect it to the batteries located by the amp (if any). If it's connected to your alternator, then technically it's connected to the battery cuz the battery, too, is connected to the alternator. It's entirely optional...that was just something I did to get a higher voltage to my amps and it worked so I thought he might like to try it. Quote
ChevyBoy Posted December 1, 2006 Report Posted December 1, 2006 yea but that means your alternator charges your battery, then goes back to the alternator for power, then sends the power to your amp? where as, you can hook it up to your battery, so then it goes from your alternator to your battery to your amp and saves you some loss in current. Quote
Shibby Posted December 1, 2006 Author Report Posted December 1, 2006 I just remembered that I have a fuse holder sitting around, so I think I am just going to do the two runs off the battery. Thanks alot for the help!!! Quote
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