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Torres port dimensions???


RooTxBeeR

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Oh I know, I meant that after using torres and having your known dimensions you can model it up. Use torres to give you the dimensions needed and take that and model it so you have a more tangible object to look at.

Ah I am not worried about making a 3d model of it, all I want it dimensions to make the cuts. Since there is a port bend torres does not give you port pieces in the cut sheet dimensions. As far as the port ratio, this is likely not a final design. With it's depth and width as it shows, I would be lucky to put 2 xp 3k's around the box.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

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Sweet, thank you. I have 1 more question. It is about making dimensions for cuts based on how your design is in torres. Last time I built a box off a design I created through torres was 5+ years ago lmao every other someone else had put together. My question is specifically about making the cut dimensions for the board of the port. So since my physical port length is 24.5, I subtract out the top boards of the baffle, which is 23, then subtract my port width, which would be 23 - 3.125 = 19.875. So my first board would need to be 39x19.875, right? Then comes next board, I have a port bend, so I take that 19.875, and that boards wood thickness should be taken out from the second boards length correct? So instantly subtracting .75 out of what the final boards length would be. So to get my final boards length, would be 24.5(port length) - 19.875(first board length) - .75(wood thickness from first board) = 3.875. So based off my design I have done up here, my 2 lengths for my port boards would be, 39x19.875 and 39x3.875 correct? I have only actually build 2 boxes I designed back when I was 18 and they had issues with the port. Since then I have had others design them and I want to say I did it all on this one, even the design.

mostly right, you need to measure down the center of the port, so the first half is right. but the bend counts as part of the length too.

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Sweet, thank you. I have 1 more question. It is about making dimensions for cuts based on how your design is in torres. Last time I built a box off a design I created through torres was 5+ years ago lmao every other someone else had put together. My question is specifically about making the cut dimensions for the board of the port. So since my physical port length is 24.5, I subtract out the top boards of the baffle, which is 23, then subtract my port width, which would be 23 - 3.125 = 19.875. So my first board would need to be 39x19.875, right? Then comes next board, I have a port bend, so I take that 19.875, and that boards wood thickness should be taken out from the second boards length correct? So instantly subtracting .75 out of what the final boards length would be. So to get my final boards length, would be 24.5(port length) - 19.875(first board length) - .75(wood thickness from first board) = 3.875. So based off my design I have done up here, my 2 lengths for my port boards would be, 39x19.875 and 39x3.875 correct? I have only actually build 2 boxes I designed back when I was 18 and they had issues with the port. Since then I have had others design them and I want to say I did it all on this one, even the design.

mostly right, you need to measure down the center of the port, so the first half is right. but the bend counts as part of the length too.

From what I read in the info on Torres itself, it said the physical port length is what the length of the outside dimension of the port, not the center, which would be the inner dimenesions length. It confused me so that is why I am asking.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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i just use the center line to determine the length after then bend. but i use sketchup or paper. Torres sometimes is quirky with end correction. which is a whole other thing.

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Sweet, thank you. I have 1 more question. It is about making dimensions for cuts based on how your design is in torres. Last time I built a box off a design I created through torres was 5+ years ago lmao every other someone else had put together. My question is specifically about making the cut dimensions for the board of the port. So since my physical port length is 24.5, I subtract out the top boards of the baffle, which is 23, then subtract my port width, which would be 23 - 3.125 = 19.875. So my first board would need to be 39x19.875, right? Then comes next board, I have a port bend, so I take that 19.875, and that boards wood thickness should be taken out from the second boards length correct? So instantly subtracting .75 out of what the final boards length would be. So to get my final boards length, would be 24.5(port length) - 19.875(first board length) - .75(wood thickness from first board) = 3.875. So based off my design I have done up here, my 2 lengths for my port boards would be, 39x19.875 and 39x3.875 correct? I have only actually build 2 boxes I designed back when I was 18 and they had issues with the port. Since then I have had others design them and I want to say I did it all on this one, even the design.

Sa18_zps6whnleoj.png

Let me answer you indirectly by running your box params on my softwares, Vb and Fb come out a little different due to a Torres calculation issue:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 31.8 Hz

Vb = 8.2 ft^3

External Height = 25 in

External Width = 40.5 in

External Depth = 23.25 in

Port Height = 3 1/8 in

Cut Sheet List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 40 1/2 x 23 1/4

Left & Right Sides = 21 3/4 x 22 3/4

Front & Back = 40 1/2 x 22 3/4

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Top to Bottom = 19 5/8 x 39

Extension = 4 1/8 x 39

Two other things:

There's an issue with your port H/W ratio (very high), if you want to do the port like that just give excess port area of what you determined needed, that will reduce airspeed and actually improve port ratio if you widen that 3 1/8"

The other thing I wanted to clear up is what Torres considers "physical port length" which is not the same as the the center line length end to end but this:

PHYSICALPORTLENGTH_zpsd8e50cf4.jpg

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Let me answer you indirectly by running your box params on my softwares, Vb and Fb come out a little different due to a Torres calculation issue:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 31.8 Hz

Vb = 8.2 ft^3

External Height = 25 in

External Width = 40.5 in

External Depth = 23.25 in

Port Height = 3 1/8 in

Cut Sheet List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 40 1/2 x 23 1/4

Left & Right Sides = 21 3/4 x 22 3/4

Front & Back = 40 1/2 x 22 3/4

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Top to Bottom = 19 5/8 x 39

Extension = 4 1/8 x 39

Two other things:

There's an issue with your port H/W ratio (very high), if you want to do the port like that just give excess port area of what you determined needed, that will reduce airspeed and actually improve port ratio if you widen that 3 1/8"

The other thing I wanted to clear up is what Torres considers "physical port length" which is not the same as the the center line length end to end but this:

PHYSICALPORTLENGTH_zpsd8e50cf4.jpg

Then how did you get the measure for port L2. I remember we had pm'd about this before, but I cannot find that PM anymore. I feel like I did it the same as you, but you got a different answer for the 2nd one. As far as the port ratio goes, that design is not final. I will have 2 xp 3000's to fit in the car as well and that size of box will make it not possible so there will be changes for the final design. Will keep port ratio in mind.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
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  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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So here is it:

port_parts.jpg

The port parts in my previous post plus 3/4" is the Torres physical port length: 19 5/8" + 4 1/8" + 3/4" = 24 1/2".

The actual physical port length is the center line length measured end to end: 22 11/16" + 6 7/16" = 29 1/8" (this is what you have entered as port length).

I never use any Torres results for my own calculations so while it did as expected in this case it may not next time, I would recommend you to always use the center line method, it's very simple and very reliable.

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/12/2016 at 4:03 AM, Joe X said:

So here is it:

port_parts.jpg

The port parts in my previous post plus 3/4" is the Torres physical port length: 19 5/8" + 4 1/8" + 3/4" = 24 1/2".

The actual physical port length is the center line length measured end to end: 22 11/16" + 6 7/16" = 29 1/8" (this is what you have entered as port length).

I never use any Torres results for my own calculations so while it did as expected in this case it may not next time, I would recommend you to always use the center line method, it's very simple and very reliable.

It took me a loooong time to use this picture with the cut sheet you gave me and the design I provided to figure it out to find out the length of each board with all the information provided. You said using the center line method is a more accurate method and I have a question on it. I have a design I just put together and was trying to figure the cut out pieces for the port. When using the physical port length, I got a L2 board of 5.75x26, with the center line method, I got the L2 being 5x26. I do see though you added .75 to the equation when determining the length with the physical port numbers, why is that? Because I did not add any .75 to my equation when using the center line method and it is .75 short. So trying to figure it which is right.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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0.75" is the thickness of the wood, to make things simpler you can just draw the center line on the board and draw the internal walls as well, it will be obvious at that time how long your L2 needs to be, anyways that 0.75" will not make any meaningful difference in the box operation, if you did it like that never mind and enjoy your new box!

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