oldsoundguy Posted December 22, 2016 Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 If you were going to run 2 sets of components you could install both sets of tweets up front and put one set of 6.75s in the front doors and one in the rear. Just wire the second set of tweets in the front to the rear component set cross overs. Then they will all be getting equal power. 80prs Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier Incriminator IA 10.1 Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors) 4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash) DC Audio level 3 12" custom box designed by joex built by me AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear DC 180 alt 99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabe Posted December 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 When you says 2 sets? You mean 1 6-3/4 in each door?? Sorry Cause I only need 2 6 3/4' speakers ( one in each door) and the rear are a weird size coaxial If you think I will be ok with just 2 tweets I might do that cause the second set was almost 100$ ( second set of tweets ) this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done 95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7 Xs power d3400 Singer 275amp alternator Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders Sundown SAE-1500d Mbquart onyx OA800.4 Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner Xenon 10k Blue HIDs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted December 22, 2016 Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 Ok now your making more sense. I was having a tough time following you. You are just replacing the front door speakers with a 6.75" component set, right? And you have a 4 ch amp and you want to power just the front speakers with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabe Posted December 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 Ok now your making more sense. I was having a tough time following you. You are just replacing the front door speakers with a 6.75" component set, right? And you have a 4 ch amp and you want to power just the front speakers with it? I have 1 6 3/4' speakers in each door up front and a tweet all stock ( 2 door Tahoe) And 2 4x10 in the back mounted above the rear cab Wondering if I can run the 2 front door speakers plus tweets and the 2 rear speakers off a 4 channel amp ( 4 coaxial speakers and 2 tweets) this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done 95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7 Xs power d3400 Singer 275amp alternator Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders Sundown SAE-1500d Mbquart onyx OA800.4 Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner Xenon 10k Blue HIDs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabe Posted December 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 And I apologize to you guys! And I'm so happy your helping me I'm just confused and don't wanted to order the wrong stuff this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done 95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7 Xs power d3400 Singer 275amp alternator Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders Sundown SAE-1500d Mbquart onyx OA800.4 Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner Xenon 10k Blue HIDs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsoundguy Posted December 22, 2016 Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 I get it. Yes you can run the component set in the front and the coax in the rear off a 4 channel amp. If you wanted you could run a second set of tweets off the front set of components if you would like. My system right now I have a component set in the front with a 6.5 woofer and two sets of tweeters with a passive crossover. I am only using 2 channels of my 4 channel amp right now. The only reason I am using 2 channels and not bridging the 4 channels is that my front set are 2ohms and my amp isn't rated for bridged at 2 ohms only 4 ohms. So my new component set I have are 4 ohms so I can bridge that set to use all 4 channels. You will need to do some research if you are considering that. 80prs Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier Incriminator IA 10.1 Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors) 4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash) DC Audio level 3 12" custom box designed by joex built by me AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear DC 180 alt 99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabe Posted December 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 All the speakers, up front and back are 4ohm impendence. I have not chosen an amp yet for my lack of understanding ( I assumed 4 channel) And I understand when you "bridge" your putting more than one wire/speaker in one terminal of you amp Ohms law does confuse me still with multiple speakers this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done 95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7 Xs power d3400 Singer 275amp alternator Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders Sundown SAE-1500d Mbquart onyx OA800.4 Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner Xenon 10k Blue HIDs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsoundguy Posted December 22, 2016 Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 Bridging an amp means you are turing 4 channels into two. The power you get to your speakers will be more. So you have 4 channels 1 and 2 are the front and 3 and 4 are rear. You take say the left side of the front set and put the - lead in channel 1's - and the + lead in channel 2's +. Then the right side of the front do the same to channels 3 and 4. Ohms is just the resistance of the speaker coil. The higher the number the less it will pull from the amp. The lower the number the more power it will pull. Try to find a set a speakers that has the same RMS power rating as the amp you are going to run at the same OHMS. So if you buy a component set that is rated for 100w RMS and they are 4 ohms you should find an amp that puts out close to the same power @ 4 ohms. If you buy a 2 ohm set of speakers you need to look at what kind of power the amp puts out @ 2 ohms. 80prs Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier Incriminator IA 10.1 Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors) 4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash) DC Audio level 3 12" custom box designed by joex built by me AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear DC 180 alt 99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabe Posted December 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 Bridging an amp means you are turing 4 channels into two. The power you get to your speakers will be more. So you have 4 channels 1 and 2 are the front and 3 and 4 are rear. You take say the left side of the front set and put the - lead in channel 1 and the + lead in channel 2. Then the right side of the front do the same to channels 3 and 4. And what about the tweets? The left side ( 6 3/4 ) will have the left side tweet hooked up in the same terminals on the amp? this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done 95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7 Xs power d3400 Singer 275amp alternator Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders Sundown SAE-1500d Mbquart onyx OA800.4 Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner Xenon 10k Blue HIDs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsoundguy Posted December 22, 2016 Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 Bridging an amp means you are turing 4 channels into two. The power you get to your speakers will be more. So you have 4 channels 1 and 2 are the front and 3 and 4 are rear. You take say the left side of the front set and put the - lead in channel 1 and the + lead in channel 2. Then the right side of the front do the same to channels 3 and 4. And what about the tweets? The left side ( 6 3/4 ) will have the left side tweet hooked up in the same terminals on the amp? Component sets have a passive cross over. You would wire the tweets to the cross over and the woofer to the crossover. Then you will wire that to the amp. Its really not that hard just sounds hard. 80prs Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier Incriminator IA 10.1 Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors) 4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash) DC Audio level 3 12" custom box designed by joex built by me AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear DC 180 alt 99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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