Dual Battery System for my Bronco

[jimdog32526]

 

So Im working on specing out my Dual Battery system for my Bronco.

The main point of this particular set up to have 2 batteries. I can select either battery to start the truck. I also have a Battery Isolator to keep the charging circuit seperate for each battery. The Main Cranking battery will ONLY start the truck. The Secondary Battery will be a Deep Cycle AGM Battery specifically designed for high powered Stereo operation and depending on the position of the switch will either start the truck and power the accessories or just power the accessories. So here is my design so far.

 

I will be using a Ruff Stuff Dual Battery Tray

Main Cranking Battery - Northstar NSB-AGM-34/78 Battery

 

Audio Only Battery - XS Power D3400

System Layout -

Perko Switch Mounted to Battery Tray on 1/4" Plexi Plate

Electronics/Fuses/Breakers/Dist Block #1 Mounted on 1/4 or 1/2" Plexi Plate mounted on Wheel house

Mechman 240 Amp Alt

 

Sure Power 240 amp isolator (I dont really know for sure if its worth it to use this or just run the batteries in parallel, but I figured since the batteries are NOT Identical, I would be better off with it in the system)

 

Perko Switch so that I can switch batteries to crank with either if need be, and lock them out completely for added security when the vehicle is parked for more than a few days.

SMD Fuse Blocks

 

SMD Distribution Block

#0 Wiring throughout all the way to the Dist Block in the back. Biggest Gauge Possible to amps.

Amps Used

Hifonics BXR1616.4 - Driving 4 JBL P963 6x9 and 4 JBL P662 6.5" Door Speakers

Sundown SVC-2000D - Driving 1 Fi Q15 Neo in Custom Box

How does this look guys?  Is this enough Power to drive this system?  Any input on Fuse size's or Locations to protect the system?

 

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

Normally the battery for the stereo will be in the back as close to the amp as possible. Having it in the front will limit its ability to deliver current because the cable(s) to the amp will limit the current draw because of their length. It would almost be like not having it. Running it in parallel with the front battery and alternator will give the amp maximum current which is needed for the big transients like a kick drum.  The isolator and selector switch aren't really needed for two different batteries. As long as they are both AGM they will have the same resting voltage and will be fine run in parallel. The only time different capacity batteries are a problem is in a deep discharge application where one battery would run out of power before the other. I just added two G31 AGM to the back of my truck and its like I added a second sub amp. It makes that much of a difference. I would also recommend dual input adapters for your sub amp so you can run two positive cables and two negative cables to the battery in the rear. The cable runs from the front battery to the back battery will need to be fused on both ends in case one gets pinched in an accident. I look forward to seeing more pictures of your build.

[jimdog32526]

THanks, thats the kind of information I am looking for.  I would really rather not run the isolator as it puts a strain on the alternator, and If i can avoid that, it would save me $150 too.

So I was looking on Sonic and they have this kit for a smaller battery I could run right next to the amp for added capacity.  I hate these kits because they are 99% of the time filled with useless garbage components.  But I like the battery tray.  I just dont know if its big enough, but with the D3400 up front and this thing in the back maybe it will be?  I dunno.  Its small enough though to fit behind one of my Side panels so it wont be seen.

 

 

So If I ran the Main 0 Gauge wire from the Block in the front 10 feet to the rear side panel, what would go next?  A Fused Distribution Block? Then D3400 only Power going to the full range amp, then Power from the block to this battery then to the SVC-2000D?

I hate the hardware they put in these kits.  I would cut the ends off all the cable and throw that crap in the trash and get some good Solder on Terminals.

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

http://4xspower.com/support/wattage-chart/

 

According to this chart you would need about four of those little guys. Maybe you could make a battery box part of your amp rack or something?

[jimdog32526]

Man I am really trying to completely avoid showing anything in the open.  I really want to conceal everything I can.  I dont need to be robbed again....

I may just run the 2 batteries in parallel and see how it goes and adjust from there.  If I have to move the 3400 to the back so be it, but I am trying to avoid having a battery in the cab if possible.  It really makes that big a difference with just a 10 foot run?  Even with 0 Gauge?  What if I up it to 00 gauge?

[jimdog32526]

I just ran some calculations.

If I run 1 1/0 Power lead from the engine bay 10 feet to the rear Distribution block this is the resulting voltage drop.

 

If I run a second 1/0 Cable form the engine bay to the rear Distribution block the voltage is much better. only a 1.3% loss.

 

I think I can live with 14.2 volts

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

Where is your sub box going to go? Maybe you could tint your windows. The thing about transient response is that it is not constant. The calculator you are using is for a constant load like a winch motor or something. The transient nature of the amplifier's output means that the peak power requirement for a 2kw amplifier supply could easily be over 600 amps for a split second, repeatedly. To do this while dropping as little voltage as possible means that the system would appear to be over kill. I'm not trying to be a wet blanket but it would be a shame to under power such nice equipment. Imho.

[jimdog32526]

I hear what your saying.  Im not going to be blowing the windows out, so I dont think I will be running it at extreme volume but maybe 10% of the time, and always while the vehicle is running.

Mainly when I pull up to a stop light and some moron in a civic with A Autozone Stereo is rattling his car to pieces.  I want to be able to roll my windows down, and crank my metal up and make it so he cant even tell his shit is working.

lol

 

I do like a fair amount of volume most of the time though,  I just dont need to vibrate my shirt off my body while im driving down the road.

most of the music I listen to is Old school metal, so its not like Rap or whatever the crap people like today is called. 

 

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

Have you ever felt the sound of a kick drum with your hair? lol any drum sound takes a lot of peak current. Now if you did want to listen to rap, I would suggest two subs and double the power. lol I get what you mean, I listen to everything: Classic rock, country, rap, chopped and screwed, slowed and rebased music too. I don't listen to it cranked up all the time either, but having lots of headroom is part of what makes a system sound so good. 

[jimdog32526]

Another question for you.

 

My JBL speakers all are rated at 2 ohms.  The amp at 2 ohms is rated at 400w.  Would I be better off, since I have 2 pairs of each, to wire them in series giving a 4 ohm load?  The amp is rated for 200w at 4 ohms.  Is that more efficient than running it hard at 2 ohms?

The P963's are rated at 110w RMS at 2 ohms and 330w Peak

The P662's are rated at 75w RMS at 2 ohms and 225w peak

The amp is 4x 400w @ 2ohms or 4x200 @ 4 ohms

I just dont know what load is best to run them at.  Should I wire them in series or parallel?

Series would still be well over the rated power, but in parallel, the power handling doubles right?

Which would still be ok but I could blow them if I dont adjust the crossover frequency just right. (I have already blown a couple of sets because of that)

 

I also found this calculator and it has me confused even more.

Looking at this, If I were to run 2ea 0 gauge cables back to the distribution block it would seem to be better overall for voltage drop and help overcome the transients and still provide a decent amount of headroom.