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I've been told r18 compatable alts can be bought from gp car audio, have never ran them so i have no experience with gp alts.

Flip the headlights on for high output mode or dmm your clamp/current sensor during high output mode for testing and build a circuit that keeps it there. The only other way around is removing the eld check by ecu flash to prevent cel and going with an hardwired/external regulator.

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5 hours ago, JJreal said:

The 2012 Honda Civic factory charging system is a pain in the a$$.  I own a 2012 Honda Civic Si and recently switched out my alternator to a "Ohio Generator" 300+ amp beast.  However, it doesn't matter if you run a 1000 amp alternator the ELD will still run it in the two modes.  Low & High charging.  I ordered all parts and completed the Bypass (example on here) with a switch. The results?  Nothing, "Horizon Audio" stereo shop location Ohio was unable to get it to work.  Apparently the bypass does not work for 9th Gen Hondas.  I have all the diagrams for the electrical printed out from the dealer. labeled every wire with its color code.  Don't get me wrong, the charging system works. I did the big three with 0 gauge, have a 1500 Watt Shuirken auxiliary battery with a stinger relay all done really nice.  I'm presently looking into the Hondata Flash Pro as a possible way to turn off the ELD.  

Hondata will only remove the ELD diagnostics check (prevents charging malfunction codes/cluster lights ect) this wont actually prevent the eld from doing its job unless its bypassed with a different regulator or hardwired at the clamp. This would allow a 1 wire or stand alone regulator to be used without setting off the cel though which is what we want, but not at that price range haha

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