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Install RAM Truck Steering Wheel Audio Control Kit


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Here’s my install i did today. Thought it would be simple lol. Tried to watch all the “how to videos” of installing this to make sure i had all the right tools before i start. Didnt work out, had to drive my ass downtown to Lowes TWICE lol smh. First my socket set wasnt strong enough and i didnt want to strip the steering column bolt so i needed a breaker bar, bought a 1/2 breaker......come home and all my sockets are 3/8 or 1/4 ? i thought they were 1/2. Went back down town to look for 1/2 extended sockets that were 6point instead of 12 point (6point sockets are better for high tension/torqued bolts) and bought a full 55pc set of impact grade sockets. What a difference the breaker with these sockets made. Anyways heres the pics.

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Couple shots of the kit. Comes with the new rear panel for the steering wheel which has the cutouts for the buttons that are located at the rear. Also comes with the new harness and buttons/switches so its all plug and play. 

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After removing the three plastic panels around the steering wheel i was able to get to the airbag clips. Ofcourse i disconnected the battery negative and waited over an hour (atleast 30 mins is recommended). The best tool i had for popping those clips was a metal panel popper with the angled tip. A straight flat blade screw driver doesnt really work because theres not enough space to pry the clip in the right direction. And a plastic panel tool would be too flimsy at the tip.D84C1FC4-5D14-4C1C-A0D1-034B433420EA.thumb.jpeg.7c5e06fd1559dcaed7d2ebf6aace9bb2.jpeg

just pulled those two plugs and popped the securing tab.

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Tried using the ratchet wrench and sockets i had. Used every combination of sockets and extensions i had, couldnt get the center bolt to budge. The harder i pushed the more the wrench and socket twisted slightly like it was about to slip off the bolt or strip the head and round the corners which wouldve SUCKED.23BEAAB9-8696-4D3A-A286-87C7826520F7.thumb.jpeg.ec90d01227ad75146d05508d0fdcb5db.jpeg

Also found out i was using the wrong style sockets. That bolt  for some reason is SAE (standard), not metric like almost everything else on the truck. At the same time also found out using 6point sockets are better for tought bolts than 12 point sockets. Went downtown to lowes to get the breaker, figureing my sockets were for 1/2 shanks. Got home and found i was wrong, drove all the way back to lowes and got one of these to make sure the job gets done. 99FD2882-F343-4AAD-B0E0-B47FFD188FE0.thumb.jpeg.37d53ad2d897b3737a5c104ddfe6a853.jpeg

So heres the old regular socket and ratchet i was trying to use compared to the breaker with these impact sockets.45DEF4A7-60F4-4DDB-9321-9CB85AACC378.thumb.jpeg.ed6fe0053cf5411ff1d921a4e4b63006.jpeg

Got the job done WAYYYYYYYYYYYY easier. Didnt even need someone to help hold the steering wheel still while i try to break the bolt lose. Heres a shot of the socket. 1/2inch shank (idk if thats the right term for the back end of the socket) with a SAE 1/2 impact grade long socket.

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Next is to set up this steering wheel puller, which wasnt so easy. Using the hooks is more sketchy. Because the hooks are much longer than the other bolts for the other steering wheels. But my truck calls for the hooks to pull it, not the bolts. So to make it work you need to use this spacer. With all the pressure and torqing the center bolt, it was twisting like it might bust out sideways. Just took some finessing and make sure its stable when i torque down on the center of the puller.

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After all that BS i got it off. When pulling the wheel off be sure to keep the Clock Spring in place, dont let it twist. You will need to reinstall the steering wheel exactly the same position with the Clock Spring as it was when u pulled it. If its off from the original line up you will have off steering. Straight steering wheel wont have the tires straight ahead.

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Brought it inside to work on it, since its been raining the whole time im doing this and its late lol. Working in the truck with a headlamp and doors closed was pretty hot. This is the stock rear panel without buttons on the back.

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Here it is disasembled 6D738672-57DB-4872-A6E5-542A992D4E9F.thumb.jpeg.98cbfdf87bbbfaa8a48161a99c25f711.jpeg722B970F-7700-466C-B5CF-F5F412E30F65.thumb.jpeg.faf49fe0ff3e193028b63ae0b6dccace.jpeg

removed front and rear panels from the wheel then replaced and ran the new harness exactly as the this old harness was.877669A3-9FF0-464C-B816-FA1A9E468AC3.thumb.jpeg.e84700d0063af29158303cad4bde49cd.jpeg

and WALLLAH its done! Buttoned it back up, alogned the clock spring and installed that bolt, torquing down on it just as hard with the breaker to make sure it get seated properly. Putting it all back on was soooooo much easier than taking it out lol. Everything worked perfectly. You can see one set of buttons in that pic, there another set just like it on the opposite back end. One side for volume one from track selection. Then middle buttons for source selection i think. Thats all folks ✌️

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Super sketchy, lol.

Good work.

6 point always, get yourself a torque wrench, proper torque is very important.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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