06RTCharger

Alright. Ill have to go drive somewhere another day to do that one. I had to keep the windows and doors all closed for testing at home. Testing some spl numbers before, using my audiocontrol SA-4100i. I found that my truck got its best numbers at 46hz and with the driver side window down only. But then i found out that the SA-4100i mic will only be able to read up to about 120db, so i couldnt see my max numbers. I think at volume 50 i was at 120 already, so idk how much higher it wouldve gone, but looking to get a SSA APM-2 soon. Getting some numbers to ur system is kinda satisfying, shows a lil personal payoff or gratification for what you've worked on.

AMM-1 test on music. Song is Gucci Mane-potential, shit bumps. I use Tidal and i downloaded Gucci's album (Delusions of Grandeur) in master quality, the jump from a hifi downloaded song to a master song is noticable the bass notes are all stronger and vocals are stronger too. Sorry for the breaks in the video, idk how to edit a video except triming off the end or beginning lol. I was reseeting the song after i adjust the volume for each test. To show how much in increases with the volume. Starts with a 40volume test, then 50, the the last is 58 volume. I think my weak electrical was causing the clipping, voltage dropped too low. The voltage didnt drop that low when i had the hifi downloads. So i guess the masters also cause more draw because of the stronger bass? Idk. Also thought it was weird that theres a point that the impedance is at 2.3 ohms? If my subs are wired at 3.7 how did it get down to 2.3? Dont know how the amp felt about that 2ohm, not supposed to go under 4ohm.

Yah maybe ill try a dyno mode on music with the AMM-1. See what that does. Becuase my voltage doesnt dip too much, usually above 13. But on volume 60 with that 40hz burp lol that shit was loud and voltage dropped below 12 i believe.

Whats the best way to start fighting box rise? Will better electrical help lower it? I know i need better electrical but just wondering if it will also lower my impedance. Also maybe my box design is flawed? Would not enough net volume or maybe not enough port length be causing high rise? Im wired at 3.7, what would normal box rise be at? Or should i say what would my optimal rise be at, considering im at 3.7 from the beginning.

I think it has something to do with these old school amps. Its over my head tho lol something to do with the rail votage and how it makes power? Idk. If the amp can use a small fuse then it can have a low rating on paper, making it legal for entering low rated comps, but killing everyone else in it with a beast amp? Something like that, dont quote me lol.

Yah i noticed the high impedance also, but if i was wired at 1ohm and using a d-class type 1500w rms amp i wouldve been way more quick to blame thehigher impedance. but becuase the amps made to make full rms power at 8 ohm, i didnt think too much about seeing 11ohm. Because its not very far off from its normal 8ohm capability. But also im wired for 3.7 so almost 12ohm is a pretty big difference from what the box is wired to. Would better electrical lower my impedance rise? Im still stock besides the big-4 upgrade.

At 8ohm it should be able to make its full power tho? given that it has better electrical than i have. Im wired at about 3.7. Is 12 ohm that big of a differance than 8ohm? Oh and sorry bout the camera lol, i was tryna show the subs before i stop the test tone. Its too loud to be doing next to my neighbors, theyre sold old folks lol. So i was just doing quick burps.

I dont wanna go bothering him becuase i didnt get the amp from him, also im not even sure everything in my test is corrrect. I just thought it was really weird to see such low numbers. I was thinking there was atleast 1000-1500 watts going to these subs becuase it slams pretty hard for me, but i havent been in anything thats very loud anyway, like at all lol. And another big reason i knew i wouldnt be getting full power out of the amp is becuase of the stock electrical+big4 upgrade. Also idk if u mean feedback as in the extra wires youre supposed to run to the subs, but i didnt use those. In the manual it said its not required but if used it will improve some of the sq parameters and also i forgot about those extra wires when i wired the box up. So i hope nothing blows lol. Im not blaming the amp at all, it sounds GREAT all three of my LPs in there sound awesome. Im just shocked at the low numbers, i feel like maybe my tests are faulted somehow but idk where i went wrong, thats why im askin for some input on what it could be. Ky's got a good point and thats one of the things i noticed also but dont know if thats all it is, i think the word people use is "box rise" idk tho.

I wanted to see what this LP 4.1HVS was putting out with my stock electrical plus big-4. When i hooked up the SMD AMM-1 and ran the frequency test (3rd menu i believe) to see what frequency my truck and box liked best it turned out to be 46hz. So using the SMD disc from my DD-1+ i used track one, the 40hz 0db test tone to run a real time power test on the AMM-1. These are the results. I believe i used the real time mode, not the dyno mode. But when i seen the results, i was just standing there scratching my head. I sort of feel like the output is not being read right. I feel like theres more power being outputted than the amm-1 is reading. What are some reasons that these readings are so low? I know i dont have the optimal battery reserve AT ALL. But playing music at 58-60 (pioneer 80prs) the voltage doesnt go below 13 on the SMD VM-1. This amp should do alot more than a couple hundred watts right, even with my basic electrical? Thanks for any input. Oh also i know my ohms are high, box is wired to 3.7ohm to begin with. Amp is designed to run 4-8 ohm

Yah id like to compare. Not sure if my ears would be able to hear the difference. If i do notice it then it must be a big difference. I do have an RTA but its the cheap one from audio control. The mic plugs into an iphone or ipad. Ive messed around with it a few times, i liked doing burps with the subs i just put in lol. Numbers are super low but it was still cool having a system and equipment to test a "burp" with. Lol youve got too many connections, give the other competitors a chance man lol jk.

Do you think it would be a big difference if i was to throw my L1ProR2 Tweeters in place of the L2SE?? Do tweeters do better off axis and less beaming? I assume its not optimal to have it way off axis in the dash like it is, but going from the L2se to a L1Pro R2 would it sound better, u think?

Ahh ok i see. Thanks

No i just have the l6se in the doors and l2se in the dash. Wanted to keep the Ram build simpler than the Chargers build lol. I figured since the l2se had a frequency response of 170hz-20khz, i wouldnt need a tweet. It can get kinna harsh already, i drop the tweets whole bandwidth down a couple dbs. I think thats the right wording "bandwidth". I believe its the network 3 section on the 80prs. I dont have the ear to tune tho or to notice if something is missing. Nooby ears. You think theres a noticable difference from the l2se in the dash to say the a-pillar on axis? I dont think id ever add a tweet to whats already there, but maybe relocating the l2se later down the road.

Heres my only my mids in a 06 Dodge Charger. Made cardboard models first, then made it out of plastic after test fitting the cardboard. Hybrid Audio Technologies Legatia L8SE My idea was to attempt to aim the mid a lil more "on axis" rather than having the mids aimed directly at my ankles lol. Also i wanted to attempt to turn the doors metal inner chamber into a sort of sealed enclouse so it was treated with Second Skin and all gaps were covered. Sadly i havent gotten to the midrange and tweet for this system yet. Thats gonna take some glassing, which i havent tried yet. But i have a L4SE set and a L1ProR2 set.

Heres the mids going in the stock location, made my own speaker adapters for the dash speakers and there door speakers. Hybrid Audio Technologies L6SE. Comparing stock speakers to my L6SE