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Any benefit of running ground from front to back?


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Is there a benefit to running grounds from front battery of vehicle to rear battery bank? All I can see is a nasty ground loop compared to frame and chassis grounds. I've seen it done before and actually pulled 2 different setups out of friends vehicles just because it goes against everything I know about 12v systems. Any input would be awesome,  I don't see myself doing this in my truck, but if it actually has a REAL benefits I may consider it in the future.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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A unibody is only good up to a certain amount of amperage. At some point you wont have a choice but run grounds. A car with a frame? Just use the frame 

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So I've got a real frame and intend on front and rear both getting a bolt through the frame as a ground. I'm about 2800 rms and not gonna be upgrading anytime soon.  I should be good right? And if I add another amp and sub I'd need to run double runs of ground at that point I'm sure.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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29 minutes ago, ehall8702 said:

So I've got a real frame and intend on front and rear both getting a bolt through the frame as a ground. I'm about 2800 rms and not gonna be upgrading anytime soon.  I should be good right? And if I add another amp and sub I'd need to run double runs of ground at that point I'm sure.

That sounds good. Just make sure to clean the frame up where you're going to pop put the bolts. Shiny metal is good metal :slayer:

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