Jump to content

I want a dsp, but do I really need one?


Recommended Posts

Have a 97 extended cab GMC 1500. Infinity reference 6 1/2 components up front, reference 4" in rear, powered by a ppi ice 1000.4, two 12 American bass es1244 under rear seat powered by a ppi ice 7000.1d. old pioneer double din touchscreen with 7 or 9 band eq.  I have it all running through a soundstream pro4x crossover. Question is, do I need a dsp ?( Cadence dsp4.8 is one I'm looking at) why do I or don't I need one? I've never known exactly what a dsp does anyways. Had a pioneer single din dsp in a car back in the day but only got it because it had a graphic eq display. 

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, ToNasty said:

Nope

Well simple answer but why not if u don't mind? I like to have the knowledge to make a final decision ya know?

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, ToNasty said:

 

Makes sense, I would assume a dsp is to fix time alignment issues mainly? I will be adding a second set of reference components soon in kick panels and may run it active then. The tweeters are super small on these and a single pair would easily be toasted , maybe a pair on each side in series would stand a chance of getting thier own channel in the amp. Thanks for the clarification.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

I wanted to explain why you don't need one. Every modern head unit has a DSP inside, most can even do time alignment per channel. It's a Digital Signal Processor. So if you have enough signal processing (analog and/or digital) right now, then no you don't need more of any kind.

 

If you want more processing like more EQ bands, more crossover options, maybe compression/expansion/gate filters, more time alignment options, or more channels to do any of these things on, then, maybe you want a DSP.

 

Since this is kind of an introduction style post, I will warn you that the capabilities of any DSP is both limited by the digital chips inside as well as the software running them and the separate software you actually use to set them. So I suggest buying from a reputable DSP company (many reputable car audio companies should NEVER be considered reputable DSP companies). A reputable DSP company should support every product they have ever released for at least 10 years with quality software updates and not just abandon a product because it is last years model.

 

My list of reputable DSP companies is: MiniDSP (because I have one), Audison (something happened to these but they seemed really good at first), and AudioControl (no surprise as they have focused on, and been market leaders in, car audio Signal Processing since the dawn of time). If anyone else knows of a really good one feel free to share.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1472 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...