BassAddikt Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 Hey guys I know its been a while since any updates on the box I built and I apologize! Been busy with work and family and life in general. Ya'll know how that goes! Anyway, the box has been built and put in the truck (been bumpin' for over a month now?). Gonna be honest, I was nervous to play it for the first time cause i didn't want to be disappointed since it was my first box, BUT, this thing slams! At least for what I have in it. Nonetheless, it is alot better than the other box. Not trying to brag or anything but it looks alot better, is built alot better, and sounds alot better than the old box i had. I just wanna give a big thanks to those of you who helped with suggestions and guidance! I"ve posted a couple pics of it below. Even though it is tuned at 34hz, it still doesn't like going low. I mean, it will, but I'm not getting as much air movement from it as I probably thought I would. Which, honestly, is more than likely the subs and NOT the box. It is built for the subs, with the correct port area and air space. Ive seen videos of people running these same subs and even they will say they don't like hitting those lows. But for now, I am satisfied with it, but will be investing in other subs...the ZVX 15s. I honestly on the fence as to whether to get 15s or 18s, but this post is on the 15s so I'm gonna stay relevant. I've been playing around with a common design (subs up, port back) since most people say you can't go wrong with it. One of the main obstacles I'm facing is trying to keep the second row if at all possible. I have a few designs in mind (but haven't modeled them out yet) but I'm trying to keep things at the c pillar for now. The max measurements i have is 40" deep, 47" wide and 35"-36" in height. Those are the dimensions of the overall space behind the second row seats. That is the space i have available to play around with designing whatever kind of box I decide on. Now, I've already designed one (subs up, port back) and modeled it in WinIsd. But a few questions have arose in the process. For one ( and you can see it in the pics), but in WinIsd, when you put in the volume of the box and the desired tuning, do you put in the overall box volume or just the volume for the airspace for the subs? The 20 cu ft is the overall inside box volume. And the tuning right about where I want it. Spec tuning for subs is 33hz and the the port length according to specs should be about 27". However, the port length I came up with is about 20". The port area is where it should be, about 250 sq in. Even though specs say 27", it should still be fine at a shorter length, correct? If I change the length, keeping the same port area, the tuning either increases or decreases (obviously) and to keep tuning where I want it, I have to have the length shorter. The velocity is under 20m/s which i'm guessing is good. I've read on here to try to keep it as low as possible (20-30m/s) but is it possible to have it too low? As far as power and electrical goes, which i'm sure someone is going to ask- it will be a while before I get these subs. I'm just playing around with designs so that when I do get the subs, I'll already have a game plan for the box. Right now, I still have stock electrical. The amp i'm currently using is a rockville db15 i believe. Yes, I was very skeptical about getting it but I just needed something to get me bumpin' temporarily. BUT, not gonna lie, I'm quite pleased with it. It has definitely surprised me. I can crank the subs up and my lights barely dim, so I guess it's pretty efficient. Regardless, I don't have a problem with it and will be using it until I upgrade. I will be upgrading the electrical before even buying the ZVXs since I know they will need it. I'm getting a 300amp alt in the next week or so, along with the big 3 upgrade. I will also be upgrading my stock battery with a d6500 more than likely. This box design currently takes up most, if not, all the cargo space so I don't have room for extra batteries. If anyone has any ideas on how to work around that, it would be appreciated. But I will be running 4 ZVXs, so about 6000 watts. In the future, I wanna run 6 15s total. Either that, or 4 18s, but leaning towards the 15s cuz more cone area. But, staying relevant to the post, I will have 4 15s, with about 6000 watts on them. I'm aware that extra batteries may be a must for that amount of power, but I'm clueless to how to make space for extra batteries and still keep everything behind the second row. If anyone had any advice/suggestions/ideas, it would be greatly appreciated. Here's the design I have so far.. The only other question I have is that the port length makes the port to end literally halfway into the box. Would they be a problem? I'm asking because the port in the box i have now is the same distance from the bottom of the box as it is wide (box is subs up, port up). The port in my box is 4.5" wide, and 4.5" from the bottom of the box. However, this design has the port ending halfway into the box, so the section "behind the port" is part of the airspace for the subs. Will this be an issue, or is it normal? If you guys have any question or advice or anything, feel free to let me know. Huge thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAddikt Posted December 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAddikt Posted December 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 I just wanna know if this design will work or if I need to change it up some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshdashef Posted December 9, 2019 Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 I’m not an elite box builder but your subs should have equal back force. That design gives the two subs above the inner port wall more back force than the other two who have no inner port wall, just the bottom of the box. Idk how exactly that would effect tuning or anything but I would think it would cause two of the four soft parts to cry compared to the other two. Could look into circular ports or something SMD Tool Map (2022): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/220267-smd-tool-map-2022/ My Port Size Calculator (in progress): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217087-port-size-calculator-in-progress/ Common Port Walls for a Slot Port: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217076-common-port-walls-why-it-matters-to-your-box/?tab=comments#comment-3240313 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAddikt Posted December 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2019 13 minutes ago, Joshdashef said: I’m not an elite box builder but your subs should have equal back force. That design gives the two subs above the inner port wall more back force than the other two who have no inner port wall, just the bottom of the box. Idk how exactly that would effect tuning or anything but I would think it would cause two of the four soft parts to cry compared to the other two. Could look into circular ports or something How would I be able to design it using a slot port? Cuz I’ve seen several builds on YouTube that are similar (subs up port back) that seem to work just fine. What you said makes a lot of sense but I’d really like to try to use a slot port if at all possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfer J Posted December 10, 2019 Report Share Posted December 10, 2019 You could put the port on the side. "A nod is just as good as a wink to a blind horse." Rolf - Ed, Edd, and Eddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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