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Everything posted by Joshdashef

  1. This ^ More often than not, install quality will make or break sound quality. 1k $ speakers in a stock door sound like 50$ speakers. Try to catch sound deadening companies on a sale, secondskin always has season sales every now and then 10-15% off.
  2. Perfect timing for me! Need some of that heat proofing material you have for a headliner
  3. Honestly, they have those under-hood safe lithium units but I would not be comfortable putting a lithium battery anywhere near my engine IMO. I would do a battery delete up front and run all my lithium in the rear (exactly what I am doing) 3 inputs would just come from your rear bank of lithium. Your alternator will only output max 350-400 amps on a good day so two runs of 1/0 is all that is necessary unless you want to make it even. I would not mix the limitless lithium's LiFePO4 with another chemistry like the S5's LTO
  4. 1/0 OFC is capable of 300 amps on a 20' run. I'd recommend a dual run of 1/0 or upsizing to single 2/0 run. Fuse to protect the wire so 300 amp fuses for 1/0.
  5. Alright here is the first online version of the calculator: Hexagonal port screens been chopped for now since it will require some macro/coding that I won't be setting up for now but the actual measurements are there still, interior and exterior. I prefer Excel but you shouldn't need a Microsoft account to open the link or edit the input fields. It will update in real time so if multiple people try to edit it at once you will run into issues so please be patient. Pasting link here and adding to first comment in post ^ Link: https://lcc.click/1mjX81f The proper way to utilize this is to use it alongside a box program like WinISD. Just work your way down the list of inputs and ignore the last one if your using a standard 3 common wall slot port. Then you will see a comparison of the internal displacements as well as surface area for various port types. *Imoh you are better off doing either Slot port, aero port or rectangular. The other hexa/octo/etc. ports are purely for style and offer only marginal benefits when compared to the others. Essentially this calculator will only help you decide on what style of port will have the least displacements and surface area that you are comfortable with. It will keep port area constant so you can decide based off purely displacement and surface area (port area * length). It is not 100% accurate due to some displacement math being different for differing port designs (aka straight ports vs L-shaped ports have different volumes associates with inner and outer walls). However, it will help you decide if you can fit that extra bit of port area by playing with dimensions of the port. Assumptions are listed, and the math is under sheet "BTS" I plan on expanding on this version so if you have anything you want added just drop a comment.
  6. That 150a of available charging does mean max amperage you can shove into it. That 25ah is meant for stock alternators that output less, so yes you will need to go a different route with that 350 amp alternator. If you go lithium I'd honestly ditch the AGM and get enough reserve to cover 75% or more of OEM specs. Then you won't have to worry about isolators, or one leeching voltage off one another causing more cycles to occur = less life. I liked JY powers blog on isolators because they were fairly simple with explanation: https://www.jypwr.com/blog/how-to-wire-agm-and-lithium-batteries-together/ You may want to also consider reading their blog on wire gauge and current capacity: https://www.jypwr.com/blog/run-power-wire-the-right-way/
  7. SP4v2+ 15" Dual 1 Ohm DC 2k per coil Box tuned to 31 hz | ~4 net cubic feet | ~5.7 gross Slot port, 14.5 x 4" | 58" squared port area | 34.20 length | WinISD shows ~35/36 m/s rear port velocity Finally getting around to building with this sub after getting a new car... just want thoughts/input on this box design.
  8. Gotta say though that Skar box is super clean for a pre-built and a decent price, if you consider the cost of wood tools, at 180$
  9. https://www.skaraudio.com/products/evl-18-inch-car-subwoofer?variant=30196958733 Recommended Ported Volume: 3.75 ~ 4.50 ft³ No specs on displacement, but for an 18 I would assume between .15 and .3 cubic feet. You're going to want to include what power you plan on running along with maximum dimensions
  10. Sorry Onedrive must have broke I have re-uploaded the 320 mp3s but you can always find these tracks on the manufacturers website here: https://www.wccaraudio.com/downloads
  11. Here you can see the complete dashboard that will show you the dimensions of the ports if you were going to build them. I will be making a dedicated screen for those who want to make an hexagon or octagon port with graphics to explain what dimensions to use. Other wise you can just look at the dimensions to build the rectangular port (each side is the same) or the circular ports by the given diameter. I also added for shits and giggles an 80% circular port area for those who want to skimp on their area because they have a more efficient port
  12. So I managed to create the dashboard today. It allows you to enter in common variables and see dynamically the changes it has on the different port styles. The table to the right shows the displacement for each port style, including the thickness of the panels. Also shows the surface area of each style of port if you wanted to know. I also made sure to have the measurements in both imperial and metric for anyone who might be using hornresp . The only limitation this has is I haven't added a way to make a slot port double thick, and the displacements assume you inlet the ports into a exterior baffle - hence why the thickness of the port wall is subtracted from the port length except for the aero ports (they are the full port length entered). With these two photos you can see the effect of going from 0 common walls to 3 with a standard slot port. Nearly 0.237 of a cubic foot just by designing the port to make use of the exterior walls. I will eventually post a link to an online test version to help work out any bugs.
  13. Edit | 4/10/21 | Added link to version 1: https://1drv.ms/x/s!AjEnAKukzb3Ecv0rRvXI47Xawt0?e=D0phdY - This version will keep port area constant after you input some variables like port length, dimensions and amount of common walls (explanation here) - Limitations: Currently does not allow you to input multiple baffles so if you have more than the thickness of material in baffle thickness your displacements will be overstated in regards to displacements from inner port walls. - Will allow you to input a slot port design that gets to a desired port area (found to work in another program like WinISD) and compare the other types of ports to it. Hey guys when I go to design ports I like seeing the displacement each may cause, albeit a slot port, aero, or anything in between. Although most will not have a need to use this as it requires you already know the cross sectional port area and length you desire, I feel this could be useful in comparing different designs on the fly. Why crunch the math when a computer can do it for you? As of right now I am still working on a dashboard to incorporate for an online tool, but I have all the formulas done for calculating different port types with the same area as a given slot port (eventually plan on adding some more features as time permits). For right now I'll just attach screenshots of the in progress build: Here what the rough input screen will include (will be creating a dashboard for final product): Variables Required 0.750 Thickness of Port Wall (Inches) 3/16 Thickness of Circular Port 25.000 Desired Port Length Y/N Slot Port Design / Enter Desired Port Area* 3.00 Common Walls (If slot port) longest Is Common Wall on longest side or shortest side? (Applies only to 1 Common Wall Slot Ports) 13.000 Desired Port Height 3.250 Desired Port Width #### Number of Ports* From there I have created a table for each design of port that includes the dimensions of each port, along with the displacements of each (this interior displacement number only includes the displacements inside the box for the port design, not the part of the port that is inside your baffle or outside of your box). I think eventually I will host it over excel online or google sheets, but please feel free to check my work. *Note for all displacement calculations I assumed 0.75" of port length was not included since it would be apart of the exterior wall, and not part of interior displacements, so the port length for all displacement calculations should be 25-.75 or 24.25" with every port having an assumed material thickness of 0.75" except for aero ports, they are 3/16 but I forgot to add in that material thickness .
  14. If you want more advice for your electrical system a new thread will help you more, but when you are determining the power you will be drawing you will look at the amps outputting that power. Not the subwoofer/speakers receiving the power.
  15. Last thing I want to do is start a versus thread. Just blown away at seeing that price per foot honestly. Its got all the bells and whistles, but justly expensive. I look at it from the average persons wallet perspective compared to complete SPL builds >10k. To each there own.
  16. I’m sure it is, but just too much when adhesive lined heat shrink would be more cost effective.
  17. Looks good to me just fuse the wires coming out of the alternator as well as right before the lithium battery and your set. They make fused distribution blocks if you want a cleaner look but they can get expensive. Treat the distribution block as a battery so connect factory harnesses or anything to their respective ones just like you would a battery terminal
  18. I highly recommend taking your time to understand how to wire these in your car safely. These are not a toy, but a tool, use your brain and stay safe - electricity can hurt you. You can think of super caps as a wide pipe with water in it, while AGMs are a barrel with a hole in it. If a lithium battery, since you said you are running a limitless lithium 45ah, were to not be able to crank your car over you have more problems than a jump start could fix. You need to remove the lithium battery and charge with a lithium compatible charger. These lithium cells will swell up if they see too much charging current at one time, this is why the different ah levels of limitless lithium have that little disclaimer saying 300a of available charging on the 45ah and 100a on the 15 ah To charge super caps you need a resister to impede the amperage the super caps will see when being brought up to the voltage of your systems. XS power uses a light bulb to do just that but there are other options.
  19. Just make a distribution block where your under hood battery would have been and run the caps closest to the amplifier, so Alt > under hood distribution > lithium > supercaps > amplifier.
  20. Damn man, some quality work there. I was expecting just another blow through when I saw a truck in the title, but nope you went full center console on this one. Tuned in for more Rip your roof
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