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Joshdashef

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Everything posted by Joshdashef

  1. For car audio purposes port velocity is not as important as say audiophile levels of 17 peak air velocity. Most shoot for the 30 meters per second mark because fitting a port that only has 22 meters per second is very hard. You improve peak output and reduce chuffing with properly sized ports with lower air velocity. I would shoot for 30 meters per second or under at a minimum, but 25 is perfectly acceptable - especially if you introduce round overs or a kerf port, but at that point why not increase port size? You can input RMS power into winisd too under signal > system input power. The order for efficiency is as follows (Highest to lowest efficiency); Circle, Octagon, Hexagon, Square, Long Rectangular/Slot. The further you stray from a perfectly circular port the less efficient it is essentially. That is why rectangular ports have such a huge drop off on surface area than slots, but slots are great because they offer rigidity and are space efficient because your using an exterior wall for a side of the port. Below shows the breakdown for your specific port with 54.6 inches squared port area, 29.67 long, slot port 19.5 x 2.8 (19.5/2.8=6.96 Port Ratio) also; *[19.5/3=6.5 Port Ratio]* As you can see the volume of a slot port is almost the same as an aero port but the walls of a rectangle are longer (higher surface area) than that of a circle port. 80% circular port is for those who like to use aero efficiency to make port smaller, but I would not recommend it.
  2. Hey all, I wanted to throw out a new link to the SMD tool map I have been updating since April 23, 2020 to get some more exposure to this map and gather more data. Likewise, I will link the raw data in .csv format for any future map mods to have access to. Along side this I will show the process to update the data into google maps. If you would like to update your information or be added to this map please do the following: PM @Joshdashef or Respond to this post with a location, tools available, and any additional comments you want to add. Example: AZ Phoenix. DD-1, Term Lab. Will help with setting gains, etc. Contact me _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Map Link _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The rest of this post will be like a tutorial so you can disregard unless your curious what is behind the curtain (one-time setup to create your own map with data) Sign into google account and create a custom "My Maps" Then download .csv file titled, "SMD Tool Map 20XX - RAW CLEAN DATA," from link above Follow next steps below for updating data for first time imports I use google drive to make this process a little easier but essentially you will be manually importing the data (sadly no way to automate or have live data changes show without scripting) My google sheet looks like this All cells that are highlighted are what I enter in from any request. Date/Username/County/State/City/Zip Code/Tools/A.I. (leaving anything blank that isn't mentioned). The Agg. Location is a formula using some if and concatenate formulas, so that will normalize it all for google maps api to show the markers. Updating Data You will have a blank map at the beginning or a layer already created if you are updating data. You will want to add another layer regardless then click import If you use a file type like .csv you can upload it here or use Google Drive to import (easier) Once you have your file imported, it will ask you two questions. Follow the pictures below using Agg. Location and Username respectively. 1. Choose columns to position your placemarks (what does google maps need to place a dot = address/location/gps cords./etc.) 2. Choose a column to title your markers (name of each dot placed) This will create a new layer titled the same as the file you import. We want to change to a different style than Uniform. Click Uniform Style Select Group places by: Seq. of numbers | Set labels: Username (or something else if you want) Done
  3. This ^ More often than not, install quality will make or break sound quality. 1k $ speakers in a stock door sound like 50$ speakers. Try to catch sound deadening companies on a sale, secondskin always has season sales every now and then 10-15% off.
  4. Perfect timing for me! Need some of that heat proofing material you have for a headliner
  5. Gotta say though that Skar box is super clean for a pre-built and a decent price, if you consider the cost of wood tools, at 180$
  6. https://www.skaraudio.com/products/evl-18-inch-car-subwoofer?variant=30196958733 Recommended Ported Volume: 3.75 ~ 4.50 ft³ No specs on displacement, but for an 18 I would assume between .15 and .3 cubic feet. You're going to want to include what power you plan on running along with maximum dimensions
  7. Sorry Onedrive must have broke I have re-uploaded the 320 mp3s but you can always find these tracks on the manufacturers website here: https://www.wccaraudio.com/downloads
  8. If you want more advice for your electrical system a new thread will help you more, but when you are determining the power you will be drawing you will look at the amps outputting that power. Not the subwoofer/speakers receiving the power.
  9. Last thing I want to do is start a versus thread. Just blown away at seeing that price per foot honestly. Its got all the bells and whistles, but justly expensive. I look at it from the average persons wallet perspective compared to complete SPL builds >10k. To each there own.
  10. I’m sure it is, but just too much when adhesive lined heat shrink would be more cost effective.
  11. Damn man, some quality work there. I was expecting just another blow through when I saw a truck in the title, but nope you went full center console on this one. Tuned in for more Rip your roof
  12. Forgot to add to this old post, but I made a 2020 tool map. Not just for your SMD tools, so feel free to comment on this post below and include stuff beyond your DD-1 like a table saw or RTA mic etc. Cheers!
  13. If you need it now just buy it. Otherwise wait for a sale, SecondSkin has always posted there sales on their instagram, facebook, and even here... if you missed it you weren't looking hard enough.
  14. Hey man welcome to the forum. If you want to get more help please start a new thread. A couple tips till then; put a multi meter on your subwoofer and see if it still reads 2 ohms at each voice coil or each pair of pos/neg (can be a little different than 2 exactly). Also can you move the cone downward at all? or is it frozen in place? So long as you can move it and hear no rubbing like the coils rubbing you could still have a perfectly good sub. check your fuses, wires, grounds, and rcas to make sure you haven't gotten any issues with the amp or signal. Check your filters on your radio and amp. If you feel like you can't get anything below 100Hz to play you might have a High Pass Filter at 100ish Hz stopping all frequencies below that from playing. Here you can see the differences between a High Pass and Low Pass Filter. High Pass allows for frequencies above a set point to play normally, attenuating those below it. While a Low Pass does the opposite. Attenuates everything to be quieter above a set point while keeping the frequencies below a set point at normal levels. I went through that whole spotify rabbit hole because I just wanted the files on my phone instead of having to deal with another device, but you can easily put the files you download off D'Amores website onto a USB drive or SD card (whatever your radio has compatibility for) instead of a CD player since you don't have one. Sub brands you may want to look at for that power rating include, Fi, DC, Sundown... to name only a few. Really my opinion is to find out what you want from this sub then find a sub that can do that, low frequencies monster? great numbers on the meter for competing? or just simply SQL where you have a great frequency response of your subwoofer for more of a sound quality loud.
  15. @SnowDrifter Got any clue if this is an old unit or something? Wiring isn’t matching any documentation.
  16. I think its weird man but I think you are suppose to use that supplied in line fuse (bigger yellow) into the smaller red. Kinda funky if you ask me
  17. Think the booklet is wrong man. Maybe an old unit? SMD stuff is pretty solid so probably a mix up. Before you install test it on the bench. Those three small wires are grouped for a reason I assume. See if any have tiny writing on them saying switched 12v or ground or constant source etc. I would test tiny wires as your red (power) with black (ground) and yellow as your switched. If that fails keep the same ground on tiny black wire and switch the red and yellow wires around so red is now your trigger or switched 12v and yellow is your constant fused 12v source then your fan wires are the bigger wires black (fan ground) and grey/white (fan positive) Best of luck! Let us know how it turns out
  18. Hey man SMD products have some of the best customer service imo. The dd-1 and cc-1 have gotten firm ware updates and likely physical component updates across the years since 2013 so I think you need to simply get them sent in for a tune up or replacement of the face plate. I would send your original purchase invoice to D'Amore Enginnering through their facebook and or email them as well. Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/DAmoreEngineering/ Also, ask about this: https://damore-engineering.myshopify.com/collections/parts-store/products/total-overhaul I was looking on their website a while back and saw they had this tune up / total overhaul for 35$. A small price for renewing a 7 year old device Best of luck!
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