Fish Chris Posted May 6, 2020 Report Posted May 6, 2020 So, I'm going to be getting a high powered alternator, for my 2008 F150 soon. Its not a "big name" alternator, so I'm not even going to mention the brand. It is listed as 320 amps, and on the web page, they say that they will basically put any voltage regulator in it, that you ask for. Hmmm. Well, I'm not exactly sure what the factory regulator is set at, but under a best case scenario, my voltage (as per my aftermarket gauge) has been as high as 14.7, but without the stereo turned on, and the stock alternator cool, it typically rests at 14.5 volts. (at least it used to, but I think its starting to fail now anyway) So, here's my $10K question....... (just a figure of speech, but I bet it could really be a few $K question, if I went overboard with too high voltage regulator !) If its my choice how high my regulator is operating at, what do you think would be the highest I could go, and still be 1000% safe with the rest of my stock electrical system ? I mean, I'm hoping at least 15 volts ? I bet 15.5 would give me a good bump in power from my amps.... But again, I don't want "ANY" additional risk of frying anything with my stock electrical system.
Joshdashef Posted May 6, 2020 Report Posted May 6, 2020 If you don’t want any additional risk of frying your cars electrical system simply don’t go beyond stock charge levels... However, if you have the room the best way to go forward is to install two types of alts. A 12v ( or 14.5v in your case ) and 16v side. 12v would run your 4 channels 300 ish alt. Then the 16v would run your monoblocks or sub amps completely separate from your factory electrical system. SMD Tool Map (2024): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/226545-smd-tool-map-2024/ Great Box Bracing Examples: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/202148-best-way-to-brace-a-box/?do=findComment&comment=3055002
Fish Chris Posted May 6, 2020 Author Report Posted May 6, 2020 8 minutes ago, Joshdashef said: If you don’t want any additional risk of frying your cars electrical system simply don’t go beyond stock charge levels... However, if you have the room the best way to go forward is to install two types of alts. A 12v ( or 14.5v in your case ) and 16v side. 12v would run your 4 channels 300 ish alt. Then the 16v would run your monoblocks or sub amps completely separate from your factory electrical system. Well I believe 14.7 is the standard VR that they will put in it, if you don't specify otherwise. I'd love to run two separate systems, but I always figured Id run ALL of the amps, including the mids/highs amp, on the 16 volt system, and just the vehicle itself on the stock electrical. Most amps, even class AB's are okay with 16 volts, aren't they ? So you don't even think 15 volts would be safe ???
Joshdashef Posted May 7, 2020 Report Posted May 7, 2020 7 hours ago, Fish Chris said: Well I believe 14.7 is the standard VR that they will put in it, if you don't specify otherwise. I'd love to run two separate systems, but I always figured Id run ALL of the amps, including the mids/highs amp, on the 16 volt system, and just the vehicle itself on the stock electrical. Most amps, even class AB's are okay with 16 volts, aren't they ? So you don't even think 15 volts would be safe ??? I mean it could be but you said no risk so that’s playing it safe. Yeah you could run all amps that are compatible with over 14.8v with 16v I don’t see why not. I just figured the monoblocks would take all a single 300 on 16 volts could give them and the mids could take the rest of the juice at the 12v side with another 300 or even 240 amp alt. Only way to know for sure is to send it 😂 SMD Tool Map (2024): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/226545-smd-tool-map-2024/ Great Box Bracing Examples: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/202148-best-way-to-brace-a-box/?do=findComment&comment=3055002
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