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4 hours ago, SNYPER said:

ok this is what ive come up with, the port L=29 1/4  W=2 1/8  H=16 1/2 per port combined center outlet width of 4 1/4   with addition of corner angle pieces and center port V for airflow. and thickness of material 3/4 birch possibly to cut weight?

 

2 xv2 d2 12 box.jpg

What’s the net volume of that enclosure itself?And is it 16.5” tall not including the top baffle?

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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When the volume of the enclosure changes then the port changes. But what you said about adding an inch to the length of the enclosure doesn’t mean you have to take off an inch from the port length. It

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No it’s not if you zoom on the pic you can see the 3/4 gap from side piece to bottom piece, what I did was take the recommended box sundown provided 2 years ago, lowered the height 2 1/4 inches, raised the width 2 inches and the depth (front to back). 1/4 inch. I’m a contractor 25 + yes so the build is easy for me it’s the port/tuning I have issues with.

 

from what I’m adding up it’s 2.527 cubic ft per side not including port should I revise it to get 2.7 per side for the .2 displacement of speakers?

If I add 1 inch to depth it’ll take it to 2.77 cu ft per side Total 5.54 

Edited by SNYPER
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It needs bracing. The more an enclosure flexes the less output that enclosure produces. At that amount of rms it is mandatory to brace that enclosure. Make sure after the displacements that the volume is 5.5 cu. ft. Other than that, it looks good.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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When the volume of the enclosure changes then the port changes. But what you said about adding an inch to the length of the enclosure doesn’t mean you have to take off an inch from the port length. It’s more complex than that. But you would have to increase the initial port back an inch to compensate for the added length so them 2 separate port walls in the back (port walls 2) have a combined width to match the initial port (port wall 1) width. Then you would have adjust the port length accordingly. I’m about to message you so I can speak to you better on the phone so you can build a correct spec enclosure.

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:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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when i lowered and widened the box 2 inches i also widened the rear port walls by 1 inch each to compensate,i shouldnt do this? and since i was adding another unaccounted for inch to the depth i was going to now subtract that inch from the rear port walls to stay at same cu inch port space.here are the final dimensions w/o subtracting that port length.

is this calculator accurate? http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo-1Woofer-Box-CAL Port lenth 1.htm 

 

If so id be at 2.5 maybe a tad more after displacement and bracing and corners,its calling for 30.96  inches of port with these dimensions im currently at 30.25

 

 

 

revised box.jpg

finished box.jpg

Edited by SNYPER
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@1point21gigawatts thnx for watching my video :)

 

I design quite a few boxes. I'm not bad at it. I cleared up a misconception I had and figured others may have that misconception so I posted about it.

 

Don't act like I'm stupid. I'm not. Box designs I've made since then have been perfectly fine.

 

No need to bash people on here.

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