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Should i leave them on and raise my truck up 2 inches to clear them or just get some 24's and leave it with a 2/4 drop?

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banner2.jpghttp://www.DCSOUNDLAB.com/01 Chevy Silverado X-CabPioneer 4900 in Dash3 Stinger 2150'sIraggi 260 amp Alt.1/0 Stinger Wiring(2) DC lvl 5 18's(2) Hifonics Cyclops10 cu box tuned to 27hz
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its easier for me to put my stock springs back on and lower 2 inches than to do any body work

banner2.jpghttp://www.DCSOUNDLAB.com/01 Chevy Silverado X-CabPioneer 4900 in Dash3 Stinger 2150'sIraggi 260 amp Alt.1/0 Stinger Wiring(2) DC lvl 5 18's(2) Hifonics Cyclops10 cu box tuned to 27hz
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thats a tight whip

thanks, as you can see doing a little DC advertisement aswell there on the windshield

banner2.jpghttp://www.DCSOUNDLAB.com/01 Chevy Silverado X-CabPioneer 4900 in Dash3 Stinger 2150'sIraggi 260 amp Alt.1/0 Stinger Wiring(2) DC lvl 5 18's(2) Hifonics Cyclops10 cu box tuned to 27hz
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Put stock springs back on those wheels are tight and that color = sex.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

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Where is it ribbing, like does it only rub when turning sharp if so i would leave it and just dont make sharp turns, it looks bad ass the way it is

no it rubs all the time, the tire is only like a 1/4" away from the fender and then the inside edge is also rubbing against the the inside plastic for the engine bay. So i would either need to lift it the front end up 2 inches or just leave it the way it is and put on the rims i really want.

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these are 24X9 so they will be a perfect fit with 35 series tires :)

banner2.jpghttp://www.DCSOUNDLAB.com/01 Chevy Silverado X-CabPioneer 4900 in Dash3 Stinger 2150'sIraggi 260 amp Alt.1/0 Stinger Wiring(2) DC lvl 5 18's(2) Hifonics Cyclops10 cu box tuned to 27hz
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