BLUE COLLAR MISFIT Posted December 17, 2021 Report Share Posted December 17, 2021 So I finally got my 15s built by the lord of bass. About to start the new build around the first of the year in my 06 Silverado crew cab. I’m building my box it will be tuned around 28hz about 4 cubes per sub after displacement and it will be a no wall build what do y’all think trying to get a little windy for this one. I’m running a audio apex cab 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted December 17, 2021 Report Share Posted December 17, 2021 50 minutes ago, BLUE COLLAR MISFIT said: So I finally got my 15s built by the lord of bass. About to start the new build around the first of the year in my 06 Silverado crew cab. I’m building my box it will be tuned around 28hz about 4 cubes per sub after displacement and it will be a no wall build what do y’all think trying to get a little windy for this one. I’m running a audio apex cab 22 Those do look like some beefy subs 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLUE COLLAR MISFIT Posted December 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2021 11 minutes ago, Dafaseles said: Those do look like some beefy subs They weigh about 60 pounds and Jorge at lord of bass said they are 1000rms but it’s a conservative rating said they could take 2500 rms so I may upgrade my amp later in the future Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLUE COLLAR MISFIT Posted December 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2021 So I’m fixing to start building my box this week and was wondering how I should do my port and sub placement. I’m doing a no wall and trying to get windy I was thinking of doing my subs up and port facing towards the front or should I do subs up and port up which do y’all think I should do. It’s gonna be 8 cubes after displacement of port and I’m gonna be tuning around 28hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted December 28, 2021 Report Share Posted December 28, 2021 So, most of the time, you see sub up, port back. Essentially, the air bounces off the rear of the vehicle, and gains energy as it reaches the front. You do see sub up, port up quite a bit as well. Truth is, you won't know which sounds better in your truck unless you try both. How wide is your port going to be, and how far away from the rear can you get it? Usually, you want to be the width of your port away from any wall. So if your port is 8" wide, you want 8" away from any surface. If you can't get that distance because of the size of the box, then try sub and port up. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLUE COLLAR MISFIT Posted December 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2021 4 minutes ago, Dafaseles said: So, most of the time, you see sub up, port back. Essentially, the air bounces off the rear of the vehicle, and gains energy as it reaches the front. You do see sub up, port up quite a bit as well. Truth is, you won't know which sounds better in your truck unless you try both. How wide is your port going to be, and how far away from the rear can you get it? Usually, you want to be the width of your port away from any wall. So if your port is 8" wide, you want 8" away from any surface. If you can't get that distance because of the size of the box, then try sub and port up. I’m not sure yet on how big my port is gonna be yet I haven’t start to do any number crunching yet but I was thinking of doing the port basically the whole width of the box kinda like this box that I built for a Tahoe awhile back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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