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Bedroom Setup! 1600watts


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generally, what wires to switch, and what small things to add.

Cut the green wire off the 20/24 pin connector. Strip it and shove it into one of the black pins. The power supply should turn on :)

Only not all PSUs will work with amps, due to the way amp power supplies 'load' the power source (also have a habit of drawing mad current at power-up)

Also the rating of the PSU is a. lied about a lot by manufacturers and b. split over many different voltages.

Unless you buy a high-end PSU you're unlikely to get much more than 30A at 12v (which is still nice) while the good ones (with their better protection circuitry) are more likely to not work :(

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

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Thanks for the replies guys

To use a computer power supply is very easy in fact

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Guide

MAKE SURE PSU IS UNPLUGGED!

Basically in the 20/24 pin motherboard connector there is a Green wire you need to cut that and ANY other black wire in the PSU and join them together, (this does the same job as the REM wire on an amp, turns it on)

One that is connected just cut off one of the molex connectors and use the Yellow wire and the black wire next to it, this will supply 12v,

Also you will need to bridge the Live and Rem connections on the amp, so that when the PSU is turned on so will the Amp

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Side Note: Depending on what amp you have you might need a powerful supply, i tried a cheapo 350watt PSU on the 1000watt amp and it would work,

So i went out and bought a 750watt PSU with Dual 12v rails, 30amps per rail, making it 60amps, this works fine and is enough to keep the caps in the amp charged

Hope this helps

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Also not sometimes you have to do things besides just the green wire etc, on the ones I used to do it to, I had to change about 5 things, or it wouldn't turn on, it varies from psu to psu. For example, psu's need a constant load on the other rails, specifically the 5 volt rail but also the 3.3. Even if the psu will turn on without doing said things, it is damaging it etc.

Btw, on these that I did, which had a 12 volt rail rated at 34 amps, I could power my alpine amp (350 watts rms) at full power, even to the point of clipping, and still hang around 11 volts.

hurston, care to show the exact psu you have? 120 amps total in a psu is pretty much unheard of... that would be 1440 watts just on the 12 volt rail, not including the other 2 rails. For example, this $480 1kw psu only has a 72 amps constant on the 12 volt rail...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...007&Tpk=1kw

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I have 30 amps per 12v rail, 2 rails makes it 60amps,

60amps in parallel will be 120 amps

So i cut off 4 molex connectors and joined them up, each molex providing 30amps, thus making 120amps in total, this does work as i measured it with my amp meter and it read out 120amps idle and when a big bass line hits it drops down to about 116amps,

This i have found out is enough to keep the amp fed and keep it sustainable whilst playing a bit bass line.

Thats how i have worked it out,

Thanks

Hurston2510

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So is this 120 amps coming from one psu or two? Then it would make sense to have 4 of the molex connectors together, and 120 amps would be reasonable between two of them. But, earlier you said you had 240 amps you were working with between the two, which would imply 120 per psu.

So yes, you can hook your two rails together to get 60 amps, but hooking the same rail in parallel to itself, even two separate molexes, won't double your power. Am I understanding what you're saying right? So I went ahead a quoted the two posts I was talking about, I think you edited your explanation one today? so was the extra amperage just a typo?

Yeah the box used to be Dual Chamber but i covered over one of the Sub Holes,

and im using computer power supplies to power it,

got 2 800watts power supplys 60amps each, so ive got 240amps powering the 1000watt

and another PSU power the 600watt

I have 30 amps per 12v rail, 2 rails makes it 60amps,

60amps in parallel will be 120 amps

So i cut off 4 molex connectors and joined them up, each molex providing 30amps, thus making 120amps in total, this does work as i measured it with my amp meter and it read out 120amps idle and when a big bass line hits it drops down to about 116amps,

This i have found out is enough to keep the amp fed and keep it sustainable whilst playing a bit bass line.

Thats how i have worked it out,

Thanks

Hurston2510

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Okay. Look at the gauge of wire on the ATX PSU. Now look at the gauge wire you are using to feed the amplifiers. See a difference?

To put it completely bluntly, you are going to melt leads. Plain and simple. And kiss those supplies goodbye. There is a reason that ATX supplies put out enough to power machines and no more, yet 12v power supplies are considerably larger and more well built. And if you go ahead, you are about to find out why.

Cheers,

Mick

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By now it might seem im thread jacking, but I feel I must also answer some of the things just put forth...

Micky, im guessing you haven't ever used a psu in this respect? I can't completely answer for hurston as i believe none of his pics actually show his supplies, but when I built all 80 or so of the psu's I had done, I went all the way to the board, drilled it out, and soldered in atleast 10 gauge, and in some cases 8. I might show some pics if I get a request, I fixed them up nicely, but I don't want to thread jack too badly.

I wish I would have taken videos of my testing I put mine through. Once I hooked up my setup I had at the time, a kicker 15" L7 with an alpine 350 watt, which was underrated, all in a vehicle, where I could switch between the vehicle's stock electrical, and the psu. I could tell no audible difference between the two.

Later, I upgraded to a better amp for my L7, so I had the alpine laying around. So, I put it in my room hooked up on a 12. Now this was only at 4 ohms, so I was only pushing 150-200 watts. Now im lazy, so for this psu, I just hooked up everything required on the outside of the psu and didn't open it up, but, I only used one of the stock wires for power. I was worried about the same thing you were, melting leads, but no heating ever occured at all. Truth is, as short as the leads are, the 14 gauge isn't all that bad.

I think you underestimate the power draw of some computers... There is a reason there are 1300 watt power supplies out. They do draw this much power when you start adding multiple video cards etc, It is just the load is split between many different wires. I know on the ones I modified, there was 8 12 volt outputs, which gave me plenty of room to drill out and put larger wire in for my needs.

So ill throw in my experience, and say I have gone ahead, and came out quite delighted at the results.

Sorry for the long reply, im a little sick, and don't have anything else better to do. Congrats if you read all of that.

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By now it might seem im thread jacking, but I feel I must also answer some of the things just put forth...

Micky, im guessing you haven't ever used a psu in this respect? I can't completely answer for hurston as i believe none of his pics actually show his supplies, but when I built all 80 or so of the psu's I had done, I went all the way to the board, drilled it out, and soldered in atleast 10 gauge, and in some cases 8. I might show some pics if I get a request, I fixed them up nicely, but I don't want to thread jack too badly.

I wish I would have taken videos of my testing I put mine through. Once I hooked up my setup I had at the time, a kicker 15" L7 with an alpine 350 watt, which was underrated, all in a vehicle, where I could switch between the vehicle's stock electrical, and the psu. I could tell no audible difference between the two.

Later, I upgraded to a better amp for my L7, so I had the alpine laying around. So, I put it in my room hooked up on a 12. Now this was only at 4 ohms, so I was only pushing 150-200 watts. Now im lazy, so for this psu, I just hooked up everything required on the outside of the psu and didn't open it up, but, I only used one of the stock wires for power. I was worried about the same thing you were, melting leads, but no heating ever occured at all. Truth is, as short as the leads are, the 14 gauge isn't all that bad.

I think you underestimate the power draw of some computers... There is a reason there are 1300 watt power supplies out. They do draw this much power when you start adding multiple video cards etc, It is just the load is split between many different wires. I know on the ones I modified, there was 8 12 volt outputs, which gave me plenty of room to drill out and put larger wire in for my needs.

So ill throw in my experience, and say I have gone ahead, and came out quite delighted at the results.

Sorry for the long reply, im a little sick, and don't have anything else better to do. Congrats if you read all of that.

mind pm'ing me some of those pics?

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Ill just go ahead and post them here since the thread is otherwise dead, but I made them clickable thumbnails so they don't take up quite so much room, and you can click them if you want to see them bigger.

Obviously by these pics I did more than just put on some wire...

First one is with 8 gauge and a led on top that lights up when it is on

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This one 10 gauge. The other wire you see (16 gauge) is a 5 volt output I sometimes added.

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Sometimes I installed banana jacks, these are nice because you can plug in a jack as they are, or unscrew it and thread a wire through a hole on them and twist the top down on it, or clamp a small alligator clip to them. Also installed is an led fan...

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Nothing special, just glamor pics of led fans.

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This is the only blue one I ever completed, and one of the few I did with just one pair of banana jacks placed there.

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This series of pics is one of the couple that I cut out the side to make room for a second grill. Ill let the pics do the talking.

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I just wish I could find some of the more intricate grill designs I had, such as some dragon ones.

Sorry for the thread jack. :ph34r:

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