ehall8702 Posted December 16, 2023 Report Share Posted December 16, 2023 So got my new jp23v2. Got about 10 minutes at .5 ohms and let magic smoke out. Brand new amp. Waiting on warranty stuff, need a full in amp. Can grab a new hd3000 2 ohm version for $200. I'm scared of taramps after my md8k but $200 for 3k??? Is it safe enuff to power my Avatar stu 12 d1? Electrical is up to par, dual runs of 3/0 temco,2 vmax agms , 300a alt. See the banda 5k 2ohms also for not much more. Scared shitless of the full bridge stuff , but man u can't beat the price to watt ratio. What y'all think as a stand in amp would the banda Electra 5k, hd3000, or the ds18 5k full bridge? Quote 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted December 16, 2023 Report Share Posted December 16, 2023 (edited) The JP23v2 is not 0.5 ohm stable so I would forget about warranty, I say get whatever amp that is 0.5 ohm stable, those full bridge amps like taramps really don't like being wired below their minimum stable. Take care man you are already two amps out. The Taramps Smart 3 BASS is 0.5 ohm stable but voltage at power terminals need to be 12.5 to 15V at all times NO exceptions, not even for a second. Edited December 16, 2023 by Joe X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted December 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2023 (edited) They sell a .5 warranty on the V2, so it is .5 stable Also if I grabbed the hd3000 2 ohm I'd wire to 2 ohms. The v1.5 was .5 stable also, I sold that and "upgraded" to the V2 or so I thought. Just need an in between amp till they go good for the V2 . The v1.5 was running the avatar for a month but was powering a pair of xrs at .5 ohm for close to 8 months with zero issues. Edited December 16, 2023 by ehall8702 Quote 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted December 17, 2023 Report Share Posted December 17, 2023 In this test the JP23 V2 it couldn't take 0.67: https://youtu.be/WUBkIoQsywk?t=166 Anyways sure you can use the HD3K 2ohm but if you don't know what went wrong with your m28k using another full bridge amp might be not a great idea. I'd be curious if JP honors that warranty and it's confirmed is their fault or what they tell you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted December 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2023 Mine never even went into protect, just stopped playing and instant smell. I assumed rise woulda put it up easily over 1ohm quickly so wasn't too worried about wiring .5 as it wasn't a real load. Guess I was wrong, hope they do go good for it or credit or something. A lotta of cash to just eat for 10 minutes of play. Also didn't see that video either, maybe woulda went a different way. As for my last taramps, I literally knocked caps and stuff off the board with it mounted on Baltic birch bolted to the floorboard of truck about a foot away from the subs. Was wired at 2.66 on a 2 ohm version of a md8k. Don't really like the sound of the fullbridge vs Korean or even Chinese/Korean boards. Just doesn't seem to have as much authority in low 30s and down, maybe the new bass line ones are better but I'm hesitant to spend $400+ to find out when I know for that price I can get something I know will sound like I want. As for a stand in at $200 tho that's not a big deal, I'd have use for the hd in a buddies truck when I either get mine back or find what I want . He needs about 2k in a small footprint, standard cab pickup with 4 vfl 6.5s , box takes almost every possible space except port side clearance to cab corner. Quote 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted December 17, 2023 Report Share Posted December 17, 2023 I don't know about that 0.5 ohm warranty in an amp that clearly can't do 0.67 or an amp two ohm stable that blows on 2.66 or why you get a D1 sub only to get to need amps supporting odd impedances... I don't know if you are cursed somehow or just your component selection process needs to improve, i don't know if you see it. Anyways luck with your next purchase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted December 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2023 All ya had to do was go to their site and look lol. My component selection has been fine for the last almost 30 years of car audio installation. i just push my own stuff hard bc, well its mine i guess. and i do have shit luck, which is why I'm not confident a taramps , mounted behind a rear seat, not easily accessible is a good idea. i have full coverage but really don't want to see my truck burn to the ground bc i cheaped out on an amp. I do alot of research before i buy stuff, still manage to get shit on once in a while tho. QC is garbage on EVERYTHING now days. last 2 out of 10 engines i have built in the last 3 months have had bad lifters straight out of the box from 2 different reputable manufacturers and those are roller lifters in LS engines. There isnt enuff cashin the world for me to build a flat tappet engine with parts as shitty as they are. ive decided there is NO way ill buy another full bridge, especially a Taramps. Ill drop the coin and get something thatll put down the power i want at 2ohms and just sell the JP to someone when/if it gets fixed . If they don't fix it ill toss it in the scrap metal bin. Down4Sound JP23 V2 BLUE - 2800W RMS Amplifier - Down4Sound Shop first check box is 2 year .5 ohm warranty for $79.99 Quote 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted December 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2023 5 hours ago, Joe X said: I don't know about that 0.5 ohm warranty in an amp that clearly can't do 0.67 or an amp two ohm stable that blows on 2.66 or why you get a D1 sub only to get to need amps supporting odd impedances... I don't know if you are cursed somehow or just your component selection process needs to improve, i don't know if you see it. Anyways luck with your next purchase. the md8k DID NOT blow, the 3 15s literally knocked the filter caps off the board! next to no hot glue reinforcing the components so vibration took it out. was less than a month before warranty was up and they drug thier feet about getting back to me so warranty never happened. any shop that would fix it was 3+ months out so chucked it into the garbage. the rp4500 that replaced ( @ .66) it ran for over a year and sold and still going on .5 ohm today. All my buddies get my hand me downs when i upgrade or change my mind. i got the d1 bc the jp23v1.5 was happy at .5 ohm. dont wanna give up more room than a single 12 in my pickup any more. figured if the v1.5 could take .5 ohm for almost a year than the newer v2 ( with a .5 ohm warranty) would be fine and net me another 500+ watts. any person would assume that im sure, i cant be a total dumbass, ill just attribute it to my garbage ass luck. Quote 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted December 18, 2023 Report Share Posted December 18, 2023 Let us know what you chose and how it went, I have to say that I held in better regard those JP amps, there's also widespread reports of insane overheating with some of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted December 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2023 6 hours ago, Joe X said: Let us know what you chose and how it went, I have to say that I held in better regard those JP amps, there's also widespread reports of insane overheating with some of them. Think I'm just gonna grab a cab45v2. Enuff power for what I need at 2ohms. Just back to figuring out where to mount the damn thing. The JP was small enuff it went nicely behind my seat. Trying to keep underseat open as I'd like to put a storage box under it. May not happen. Now my minds on a custom center console to keep a full back seat. Extended cab trucks are a PITA for decent bass if you wanna keep the back seat at least. Quote 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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