AM209 Posted September 25, 2024 Report Posted September 25, 2024 Hi, I recently purchased a battery isolator since I installed a secondary battery to run all my audio equipment. I could wire the batteries in parallel to increase my capacity for my audio system but I would rather have both batteries isolated. I want the flexibility that I can jump start my vehicle with my secondary battery if my main battery dies on me. I'm not using a diode battery isolator that would lower my battery charge voltage in the mid 13 volt range. I'm using a mosfet battery isolator from Victron that barely drops my battery voltage. This company mainly focuses on marine application so I decided to give it a try. When I wired everything up I noticed the alternator wasn't charging since the isolator only allows current to flow one way. To get the alternator to charge I ran a jumper wire from the battery + terminal to the alternator + stud and the alternator started to charge both batteries in the 14V range. I'm not too familiar with how alternators work besides some basic stuff. Here is where I need some input. I can run a wire from the battery + terminal to the alternator stud to tell the alternator to charge my batteries. I would wire a relay in between so this will only occur when the car is on. Here is where I see the issue. I just created a 2nd passage for my main battery to charge. Would I blow my 30 amp rated relay or would most of the current flow from the isolator side? I was also thinking of adding a power switch timer that would allow a closed circuit between the battery + and the alternator stud for a few seconds and then it would become an open circuit after that. That way the battery would be charged from the isolator connection. I did some research and it seems that this won't work since the alternator internal voltage regulator needs input from the battery to determine the charging output.
SnowDrifter Posted September 26, 2024 Report Posted September 26, 2024 Could you post a quick sketch of your current and proposed setup? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
AM209 Posted September 26, 2024 Author Report Posted September 26, 2024 Here is a picture of the manufacturer on how to wire the isolator. I go the one with two outputs instead of three. Output 1 is running to my starter battery which runs everything that the manufacturer intended the car battery to power. Output 2 has 4 gauge OFC wire run all the way back in the trunk where the 2nd battery is located. On the image you can see a section called "Alternator energize input" I thought that if I ran a cable from the energize connection to the alternator stud that this would trigger the alternator to charge but it didn't.
AM209 Posted September 26, 2024 Author Report Posted September 26, 2024 Here is a quick drawing on what's on my trunk.
Kyblack76 Posted October 2, 2024 Report Posted October 2, 2024 Ditch the iosolater SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
madeforthis Posted October 3, 2024 Report Posted October 3, 2024 Interesting setup! Have you considered a different brand of isolator?
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