Problem- 5v on remote wire instead of 12

[Jose1457]

I installed a 1000w 4 Chanel amplifier and I am only getting 5 volts on my remote wire causing the amplifier to cut out. I have tried all of these already with no luck. 
1. removed all speaker wire from amplifier. 
2. Checked remote wire at head unit for 12 volts, and it shows 12 volts. 
  - also jumped 12v straight to amplifier and still got voltage drop. 
3. replaced fuse no luck. 
4. removed ground and ran jumper cable from battery straight to amplifier to rule out bad ground. 
5. It’s not power wire because I am running a distribution block at the back to another amplifier that works fine.
Is there anything else I can check or is the amplifier fried? 

[Joe X]

So you are saying that the remote on line is 12V but when you connect it to that amp it goes down to 5V ?

[Jose1457]

Yes, and it’s causing the amp to cut out 

[Kyblack76]

You have a shit ground, Or, the amp is blown. 

[Jose1457]

1 hour ago, Kyblack76 said:

You have a shit ground, Or, the amp is blown. 

I’m pretty sure it’s the amp I have a straight amp to chassis ground bare clean metal, and I even used a jumper cable to connect amp straight to battery and still the same thing. Would it be worth the money to repair the amp? 

[Joe X]

If the amp is good and your turn on signal is bad you could just connect the  the turn on signal to the 12V on the amp and the amp should turn on and stay on.

 

But do it with a multimeter in current mode and make sure the current stays below some 200 mA, if the current is high disconnect immediately.

 

 

 

[Jose1457]

2 hours ago, Joe X said:

If the amp is good and your turn on signal is bad you could just connect the  the turn on signal to the 12V on the amp and the amp should turn on and stay on.

 

But do it with a multimeter in current mode and make sure the current stays below some 200 mA, if the current is high disconnect immediately.

 

 

 

I did that while it was in the car and it was the same thing reading 5v. 
I pulled the amplifier out and I’m powering it with a 12v power supply and everything is working fine now and I have 12v on remote side. 
The only thing I can think of now is the power wire that runs from the distribution block to the amplifier. Have you used the wire ferrules in these? I have one in right now and it might not be a secure connection like it needs to be. But the power wire is good because my other amp turns on and works fine

[Kyblack76]

But did you have a "load" on it, on the bench.????  Looks like no, you didnt. When the board is presented with a load (speakers hooked up, as the load)

things may change mate. 

[Jose1457]

57 minutes ago, Kyblack76 said:

But did you have a "load" on it, on the bench.????  Looks like no, you didnt. When the board is presented with a load (speakers hooked up, as the load)

things may change mate. 

I ended up connecting a tweeter just to make sure it worked and it played fine, did not drop voltage for remote. So now I’m even more lost. 
I’m going to try and connect it back into the car and see if anything changes. And probably remove wire ferrule Incase that is causing a bad connection 

[Joe X]

So that test shows that the amp works with a proper turn on signal, the turn on signal also works because the other amp works with it.

 

So if redoing the turn on signal line doesn't help what is likely happening is that the turn on signal from the head unit is too weak for the audiopipe amp, something pretty rare honestly.

 

There are 2 ways to fixing the problem:

 

1) find another turn on signal.

2) increase the strength of the turn on signal you have.

 

If you could tell us what head unit you have that would help, the power on antenna signal can be used as an amp turn on signal but it is not available in every head unit. The other signal you can use is from the ignition switch but it is not ideal.