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Power Wires/battery Help!


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I need to get my electrical going in the truck if I want to be done with my truck by next friday. So I need ideals as far what wires and battery to run. Right now I gonna go off the stock 160a alternator in the suburan for now until the end of August. I should have the money saved up then to get the second alt to run a dual alt setup. So for now just so I can hear my DC subs I want to go with 1 additonal battery up under the hood and two runs of 1/0 to the second row seats. That's were I'm gonna mount the autotek amp. The autotek has dual pos/neg 4g power terminals, so my questions is what wires should I go with. I'm thinking of going with KnuKoncepts Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0g Black Power/Ground Wire. However I'm hearing a lot of good stuff about the kicker hyper flex cables as well but I can't find a store online that sales it by the foot. What about eD's power wire that they use, anyone here used they're wires before? If I could stay at or under $200 for power and ground wires/terminal/dis block I should be good. I have some dis blocks from my durango install that I could re-use so I could save some green backs from that as well as some 4ga wiring.

Do you guys know where I can find a battery isolator online at? I need to know where to find one at so I can figure that in with the cost of my additional battery. Once I can find the isolator, then that will leave me with a battery choice. I was over at Jegs.com and saw that the powermaster D3100 over there was at $300. Anyone know where I could find that at a cheaper price? I may just go with a yellow top for now and then switch over later on when I get the second alt. However if I could find a D3100 for a good price I may pick it up.

So to sum everything up. I've got about $450 - $500 to spend on power wires/rca/battery terminals/dis blocks/battery and I need some help trying to figure out what to get. The cheaper I can stay the better both the wife and I will be ;)

Just to note - This is for daily driving and not a comp car. With that said I don't need 7 batteries of 5 300a alternators. Total peak wattage of my system should be right at or just below 5K.

Edited by pervitizm

2007 Chevy Suburban LT1

Pioneer AVH 5700 DVD

Diamond Audio D3 6 1/2 components

Kicker 06ZX650.4 amp

Kicker 06ZX2500.1 (x 2)

DC Sound Lab Level 4 18's with Level 5 coils

Autotek Mean Machine 400.1D (replaced)

Soon to come:

rims

body kit

flow master pipes

Confuscious say "he who say it can't be done shouldn't be bothering man busy doing it"

Now feel free to go crawl back under that rock and leave this to the professionals....

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Okay............

How about this

(1) Optima / 12 Volts, 900 CCA (1125 CA) Yellow Top Battery - $250. (Autozone)

(2) Kicker PKD1 1/0 amp wire kit - $120 each (Sonix Electronic)

That alone would be right at $490 give or take.

Now about the isolator would I need one? I mean I plan on getting a second alt in a few months that will be installed only to charge the batteries for the stereo would it be wise to get the isolator or not? Keep in mind this is all going into a 2007 suburban.

2007 Chevy Suburban LT1

Pioneer AVH 5700 DVD

Diamond Audio D3 6 1/2 components

Kicker 06ZX650.4 amp

Kicker 06ZX2500.1 (x 2)

DC Sound Lab Level 4 18's with Level 5 coils

Autotek Mean Machine 400.1D (replaced)

Soon to come:

rims

body kit

flow master pipes

Confuscious say "he who say it can't be done shouldn't be bothering man busy doing it"

Now feel free to go crawl back under that rock and leave this to the professionals....

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The knukonceptz fleks cable is definately worth the money! Just curious why do you want/need to isolate your 2nd battery? I dont see the use in doing it. I have heard it keeps the one for strictly your starting/ electrical and uses the 2nd strictly for the system. Why not just use both of them at the same time? My truck came from the factory with 2 batts wired in paralell. Sounds like youre heading in a good direction though!

-BS

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The knukonceptz fleks cable is definately worth the money! Just curious why do you want/need to isolate your 2nd battery? I dont see the use in doing it. I have heard it keeps the one for strictly your starting/ electrical and uses the 2nd strictly for the system. Why not just use both of them at the same time? My truck came from the factory with 2 batts wired in paralell. Sounds like youre heading in a good direction though!

-BS

Thanks. The resason why I'm cosidering the isolator is because my truck is still under warranty and I want to make sure that I install this stuff in such a way that it doesn't void that at all. I just did a pric compare on Knu vs the 2 kicker amp kits and I can get much much more from Knu for a lot less money. So I may go with knu, which I need to order by tomorrow if I want the stuff here for next week. As for the battery I'm still trying to figure out if I should go with Yellow Top or Powermaster. Right now I can't even find a shop near me that carries Powermaster locally. I guess I'm gonna be bussy this weekend :wacko:

Man this is an expensive hobby when your trying to go big.

2007 Chevy Suburban LT1

Pioneer AVH 5700 DVD

Diamond Audio D3 6 1/2 components

Kicker 06ZX650.4 amp

Kicker 06ZX2500.1 (x 2)

DC Sound Lab Level 4 18's with Level 5 coils

Autotek Mean Machine 400.1D (replaced)

Soon to come:

rims

body kit

flow master pipes

Confuscious say "he who say it can't be done shouldn't be bothering man busy doing it"

Now feel free to go crawl back under that rock and leave this to the professionals....

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hey just to let you know, i went to costco this weekend and saw the yellowtops for $170

Thanks for the tip. I'll swing by my local Costco tomorrow after work to see what they have.

2007 Chevy Suburban LT1

Pioneer AVH 5700 DVD

Diamond Audio D3 6 1/2 components

Kicker 06ZX650.4 amp

Kicker 06ZX2500.1 (x 2)

DC Sound Lab Level 4 18's with Level 5 coils

Autotek Mean Machine 400.1D (replaced)

Soon to come:

rims

body kit

flow master pipes

Confuscious say "he who say it can't be done shouldn't be bothering man busy doing it"

Now feel free to go crawl back under that rock and leave this to the professionals....

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Man,

Now I know why I hate going to local audio shops. Everyone wants to down the shit you have just so you can buy the shit they offer. I went to one shop today just to see if they carried some memphis speakers that I've been trying to buy for the truck. I notice that the owner of the shop was rolling an 2007 suburban as well so I figured I'd ask how much they would charge me to hookup my second battery since I was already there. They asked me what I was running and what not. I told them I was running the dual DC's off my autotek and that I wanted a single aux battery for now cause I'll be going to a with an additional alt at the end of the summer. This guys goes on to tell me how many watts my amp won't put out, that I don't need two runs of 1/0, and that a second alt isn't necessary if I just go ahead and ditch my factory alt. I then told the guy that I wanted to keep the factory system in tack and that the purpose of the second alt would be to power my sound system. I told him that I was intrested in running the Powermaster Xs series battery thinking that he carried it cause he had mentioned to me that he installed their alternators. Guy tells me this story about how powermaster didn't make their own batteries that some other company made them and that the Kinetik were way better batteries. So guy goes ahead and quote me $580 to intall an isolator and a single HC1800. They didn't carry the battery in stock so I would have to wait fo them to order it, which would take about a week. I'm like okay let me think about that and took his card and left.

I hate shops that are about trashing the stuff you have. Why can't I go to a shop and when I tell them what I have they respond with a "how can we assist you with what you have" as appose to "yeah that not as good as product A that I carry maybe you should buy this instead". The messed up part about this was that He has some Bravox speakers there that sounded pretty good. I was about to buy them, but then he goes on to trash Diamond Audio (I just brought a pair of the D363.5 for my front doors). He says that their quality went down due to them selling the company to some korean company. Says he's down for selling only American made products but offered to sell me some speakers made from Brazill? :blink: Well I guess they are American made.....South American. :lol:

I then go to shop number two. Here I just ask for the price they would charge me for an HC1800. Again they didn't have the battery in stock. They wanted $350 for the HC1800 battery and then I was gonna have to pay to have them ship me the battery so total cost was gonna come out to around $435. <_< .

So now that I know I can't find an Kinetik or a PowerMaster locally, I'm now more than sure I'm gonna run an Optima Yellow Top. I stopped by Autozone tonight and picked up a battery tray and battery hold down. Tomorrow I start on the box build and order my wires. I'm gonna go with KnuKoncepts. Do you guys think that a Yellow Top 800/700 cca battery is good enough for now? That seems like the biggest battery I can find locally.

2007 Chevy Suburban LT1

Pioneer AVH 5700 DVD

Diamond Audio D3 6 1/2 components

Kicker 06ZX650.4 amp

Kicker 06ZX2500.1 (x 2)

DC Sound Lab Level 4 18's with Level 5 coils

Autotek Mean Machine 400.1D (replaced)

Soon to come:

rims

body kit

flow master pipes

Confuscious say "he who say it can't be done shouldn't be bothering man busy doing it"

Now feel free to go crawl back under that rock and leave this to the professionals....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay............

How about this

(1) Optima / 12 Volts, 900 CCA (1125 CA) Yellow Top Battery - $250. (Autozone)

(2) Kicker PKD1 1/0 amp wire kit - $120 each (Sonix Electronic)

That alone would be right at $490 give or take.

Now about the isolator would I need one? I mean I plan on getting a second alt in a few months that will be installed only to charge the batteries for the stereo would it be wise to get the isolator or not? Keep in mind this is all going into a 2007 suburban.

If you were local to SC I would hook you up with that same battery for a lot less money. Too bad shipping a battery cost so damn much.

teamnemesissundown-1.jpg

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you wouldnt really need a battery isolator, its not needed. having 2 batteries to start your car and to have for your audio system is alot better than having 1 for each. And if they want that much money for a little job like that, f*ck them. a yellowtop is perfectly fine for now, but i would suggest to upgrade to another yellowtop or two in the near future.

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