77-AUDIO Posted July 11, 2008 Report Posted July 11, 2008 I am getting a sub today (RE Audio SE 10") and was wondering what one I need to get a 1 ohm load bridged? Do I need the dual 2 or the dual 4. Remember I am only buying 1 (ONE) sub. Quote PPI dbl dinDC Level 31.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.DC audio 2.0kCT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear
Bass4Lyfe Posted July 11, 2008 Report Posted July 11, 2008 Get duel 2, wire it in parallel for a presented load of 1 ohm to the amp Quote ~Matthew 1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L (1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm with Shock and Proximity (1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio) (1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator (1) Big 3 Done In 1/0 (2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell (1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver (1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device (4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers (1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface (4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers (1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck) (4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils (1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz (1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier (1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -) (1) Stinger Volt Meter
ISO Posted July 11, 2008 Report Posted July 11, 2008 You just need a dual 2 ohm sub to get get 1 ohm out of a single sub. D2 = 1 ohm and 4 ohm D4 = 2 ohm and 8 ohm Quote Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character.
ISO Posted July 11, 2008 Report Posted July 11, 2008 Get duel 2, wire it in parallel for a presented load of 1 ohm to the amp You beat me to it. LOL Quote Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character.
Bass4Lyfe Posted July 11, 2008 Report Posted July 11, 2008 (edited) EDIT better anyways so that he knows its right - if 2 ppl say the same thign you know? Edited July 11, 2008 by Bass4Lyfe Quote ~Matthew 1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L (1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm with Shock and Proximity (1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio) (1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator (1) Big 3 Done In 1/0 (2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell (1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver (1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device (4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers (1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface (4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers (1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck) (4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils (1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz (1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier (1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -) (1) Stinger Volt Meter
ISO Posted July 11, 2008 Report Posted July 11, 2008 EDIT better anyways so that he knows its right - if 2 ppl say the same thign you know? So true so true Quote Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character.
kbreudi Posted July 11, 2008 Report Posted July 11, 2008 I am getting a sub today (RE Audio SE 10") and was wondering what one I need to get a 1 ohm load bridged? Do I need the dual 2 or the dual 4.Remember I am only buying 1 (ONE) sub. Thats not gonna be good my man. By the sound of it your trying to hook this woofer up to a multi channel amp. Most a/b mulit channel amps are only stable bridged at 4ohm, most will do 2 ohm bridged with out shutting off or going tinto protect. But 1 ohm load bridged will most likly cause your amp tp pop into protect often or cause damage to the amp it self Quote TEAM SUNDOWN 4 Nightshade 15"s 2 Sundown SAZ-4500 8 Deep Cycle batts 1998 Cadillac Catera SPLMAX CUP 2008 Fourth Place Overall
Bass4Lyfe Posted July 11, 2008 Report Posted July 11, 2008 goot point kb .. .didn't even think of that ... bro just find a 1 ohm stable amp, class D Quote ~Matthew 1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L (1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm with Shock and Proximity (1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio) (1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator (1) Big 3 Done In 1/0 (2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell (1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver (1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device (4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers (1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface (4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers (1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck) (4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils (1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz (1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier (1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -) (1) Stinger Volt Meter
77-AUDIO Posted July 11, 2008 Author Report Posted July 11, 2008 its .5 ohm stable mono and 1 ohm stable bridged. which will give me get this 2500watts. to a sub that has a max of 600.... i will have no problem with the amp at 1 ohm. Quote PPI dbl dinDC Level 31.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.DC audio 2.0kCT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear
07sOnAtA sp.ed Posted July 11, 2008 Report Posted July 11, 2008 heres a woofer wiring wizard, provided by rockford... i always use it, it come in real handy: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woof...mp;woofer_imp=4 Quote CURRENTLY UNDER RE-CONSTRUCTION 2008 Hyundai Sonata Team T3 Audio Team Deadly Hertz Team SMD (Street Motivated Devastation)
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