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Hmm, not sure which models are best, but I would recommend Viper to anyone, I've been very happy with mine. If you take a look on their site it looks like the models with the least features might have what you are looking for.

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MECP_SMALL.jpgCERTIFIED BITCHES!!!

Not being new at something doesn't mean anything. Just because a prostitute isn't new at what she does, doesn't change the fact that she still 'sucks'

Click to see my build!

Proud DC owner

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i have an avital 6500, its pretty old, still in the box, its opened but not installed, its missing the horn, and i can't say if its totally complete, no manual, says to be used on auto transmission only. its been sitting in my basement for about 4 years, ill sell it cheap, i don't have a camera for pics atm, has two remotes, but yeah its an older system.

I can remember when the avital line was first added to Clifford's lineup...good for the money..I even put one on one of my street bikes back in 95..viper or any DEI shit will be good as well..Audiovox has some good ones as well...the 250 series would do you fine

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yeah i had avital system in my cavalier and it worked great, this thing i have i got for free, and like i said, i have no clue if its all there, but it looks to be. not to thread jack but if anyone wants it, ill let it go for 40 shipped. BUY AT OWN RISK as i said, no manual/ horn and thats all i really know about it.... *im not trying to push this, i suggest you look around*

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dei is good stuff! lifetime warranty on the brain (if installed by a authorized dealer)

audiovox does have some good stuff and they warranty the remotes as well

I have heard that is autopage is good but I haven't done but a few so I can't really say but alot of people have told me good things

crimestopper is decent ,I haven't tested their warranty ,they are definitely lower cost .

imho dei is the way to go ,go for a python 460 or something similar it has an onboard shock sensor and another port for ad on sensors like glass break ,digital tilt and motion .

every alarm i have ever done has had a positive trigger,a negative trigger,and an instant negative trigger( positive for ford style domelights negative for almost every other vehicle and the instant trigger is for hood pin /trunk pin or both if you chose.

let me know if you need any help or guidance ,I have done literally thousands of alarms -and that offer is open to anyone who needs help ,guidance ,or tech assistance.

Also if anyone is in the portland area i could possibly do it for you.

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I thought i'd support my local shop and asked him for a quote- 250$ installed doors, brain, horn, and obviously remote.

is it worth it to buy my own online and install myself? (with help from dr. smd.com) or should i drop the few extra bucks to support them and have it done for me?

-Drew

detail.gifI am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. detail.gif

uhoh_45 said:
dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew
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I've had the same Prestige alarm on my Galaxie for 15+ years now. It hasn't seen the best of conditions either.

Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out.

not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. :)

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;)

This is what i'm looking for in an alarm for my ride.

First off it has no power windows, locks, or powered hatch so i do NOT want a fancy unit that has lock/unlock +remote start + trunk open etc etc blah blah blah.

i want:

a central unit

sensors for me to wire, at LEAST three maybe more.

remote with just ARM and DISARM

and Horn/noise maker

whats out there that has had proven results that fits my application????

-Drew

what is your application ,i,e what kind of car do you have ? it sounds like you have a base model something in whixh case you should do it yourself ! I mean there isn't hardly anything to it .

actuall wires to connect to in a base model situation are not that many- door trigger which means find the wire that feeds the domelight it's negative signal a door pin wire usually works but you need to test it to make sure that both doors can be "sensed " from the same wire .You do this by finding said wire and probing it with your ground type test light close both pin switches and your light should come on .open one it should go off close it and open the other one .repeat as many times as you have doors or hatches (which maybe or maybe not be covered.

parking lights will either be negative or positive trigger meaning it takes a ground or 12 volts to turn on .Cars with the parking light switch on the column can be tested there at the column harness ,a ground type test light will either turn on when the positive trigger parking lights are turned on or will turn on the negative trigger parking lights.For cars with switches on the dash (usually positive trigger) verify that the wire you are going to use isn't the dimmer wire by probing the wire ,turn on the lights (Test light should be on) and roll the dimmer if your test light dims ,keep searching .

the ignition and starter wire are generally in the same harness ,find the ignition wire by probing with ground type test light this wire will turn on with the key and stay lit when the key is turned to the starting position .the starter wire should be tested the same way but it only kights when the key is turned to start.

Since some cars have 2 starter wires verify that you have the right one by cutting the wire and trying the key if it doesn't start you have the right wire if not reconnect the wire and keep searching .some fords and nissans have 2 starter wires....

main power is generally recommended to be obtained at the battery,if you fuse it at the battery and have problems you could just pull the fuse .In contrast to that main power usually can be gotten under the dash or at the fuse block.the onlly draw back is that if you experience problems and your valet switch doesn't work you will then have to get back under the dash to disconnect .

there are a few thing s to remember when doing alarms : a ground type test light is not the recommended tool !

a dmm is the way to go or an airbag safe self powered "logic tester is 2nd (i use this the most) .

when looking for wires in the column or ignition harnes be weary of harnesses wrapped in yellow tape those are airbag wires and the wrong move there could be disastrous to both the installer and the car .

figure out where all of your wires are going to come from first ,i generally run all of my wires to one spot and connect them to the alarms harness by twisting the wires together and using one end of the butt connector asa snow cap ,it's a good connection and in the event of trouble you have a "test port for all of your wiring.

also make sure you ground to a good solid panel not just a bolt on somewhere under the dash ,i usually go to the drivers kick panel .

If any one watns a full demo on alarms just request and i will go to a step by stepwith pics for alarms ,actuators ,remote start or any other alarm options .

good luck drew!-case :rolleyes:

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