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Posted

just looking for a ideas i have us amps 400 on two fi ssd 12's and i have already done the wire upgrades on the engine, have a second battery in the trunk (red top) and have 0 ga running to a distribution block where it seperates the power wire to my highs amp and the lows amp. now heres where i'm looking for ideas. on the us amps it takes three runs of 8ga wire each for ground and pos. if i already have a distro block with 0 ga running to it and the three 8ga to the amp should i leave it or should i increase the size of the 8ga wire? you guys think that would make any diffrerence?

Guest aseanj52
Posted

What you should do is run a power wire from you battery for each amp. That would help the most.

Which is what should be done anyway.

Posted (edited)

And redtops don't really provide much power like a powermaster/kinetik/stinger battery do.

Edited by wL<3bass

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

Posted
And redtops don't really provide much power like a powermaster/kinetik/stinger battery do.

yeah but i already had the red top from another car where i had red upfront yellow in the back. as for the wires you saying i should just do the three runs of 8ga straight from the battery?

Posted
yeah but i already had the red top from another car where i had red upfront yellow in the back. as for the wires you saying i should just do the three runs of 8ga straight from the battery?

Yup and get another redtop if necessary.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

Guest aseanj52
Posted

Well, i would use "At Least" 4 awg into the bass amps. And probably 4 awg into the highs amp to. Just to help power flow better.

More power usually = less clipping.

Posted
Well, i would use "At Least" 4 awg into the bass amps. And probably 4 awg into the highs amp to. Just to help power flow better.

More power usually = less clipping.

hmm.. yes this makes sense. think i'll do that this weekend, thanks folks.

Guest aseanj52
Posted

Make sure to put the right size fuse on each run to the back. What did you have on the 0/1?

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