bmwkingaudio Posted August 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 To you alternator question in your original post you are thinking of running 3 Boss BLX5000 at 5000 watts each for combined 15,000 watts for your subs. Using ohms law (watts divided by your voltage = amps) would indicted you would need 1250 amps supplying your amps at 12 volts or with your car running 1120 amps assuming your running voltage is mid 13 to low 14 volts I used 13.4 for reference. Now these are just reference numbers amp design will change these numbers based on their design efficiency, speaker load and voltage supplied to the amplifier. Your alternator from BMW was installed for one purpose, to supply power to the cars stock electrical there maybe 20-30% of reserve capacity. In the end there will not be enough volts/amps to supply a large stereo system for a long period of time, batteries will help for a short time until there voltage supply begins to run low. This action will become added load on you alternator; low system voltage will cause all sorts of problems not just with your stereo but your cars electrical system as well. Running large amounts of watts will require a strong electrical system to support it and should be included into your design. Sorry to bring all this bad news on you system design. I am facing similar issues in my system design for a bass racer that I am going to be building for next season in dB drags. The engine ECU controls my car alternator output voltage so I cannot replace with a HO alternator nor do I have the room for a second alternator under my hood. So I have changed my system total power to reduce the load on my alternator, I will still be using a two-battery setup. My basic viewpoint of system design is what load can my car support and how much room am I going to allow for my subwoofers. Next what are my options on electrical upgrades, then the fun stuff picking the subs/amps. I have never used Audiobahn or boss products in the past so I cannot offer any comments in your design. The only thing I can offer is to start attending some car stereo shows in your area and/or more research on the forum as to equipment to be considered in you next build. I’m in northern cali so there are some dominant brands here and for good reason they have survived the test of ground pounding or the lanes. Some brands to think about: Rockford Fosgate, Sundown, and Stetsom for amps. Fi, DD, DC Audio for subs. This is just the tip of the audio iceberg but just a few of the companies I am thinking of using in my build. Bottom line go with a company that has proven itself in competition. Keep in mind to focus on the street class, just my little humble opinion with the upper level classes hard to tell if they are using off the shelve items or modified products not availble to the public. Impedance on your speakers will vary from there nominal rating. Here is the technical side I maybe a little lacking on but here it goes your subs when you first turn on you system will be a rating close to there original factor rating. But as you begin playing your system the voice coils warm up and will affect you impedance value and next is the different frequencies that are played through you subs this to will change your impedance values. So my two cents is heat and frequency will vary your impendence load upon your amp during your listen time period. Other things that will affect it is the speaker design itself and what cooling design was built within your sub and your sub box design will affect it to some degree. Hope this made a little sense, just be aware that your amp will see many different loads and conditions it will have to work in on a daily basis. The big 3 is a process of adding (suggested) 1/0 gauge wire to your electrical system to improve your voltage/current transfer from your alternator to your battery(s). By adding and not replacing to your existing car cabling your cars alternator electrical will take the path of least resistance the larger cable. The 3 wires would be: 1. Positive battery post to your positive on the alternator 2. Battery negative to ground 3. Engine block to ground. Spend some time on the tutorial in the electrical-battery-alternators-wiring, very helpful. Your front stage you did not mention what you are running for your mid/high and head unit and if you have amp for you mid/highs? Hope this helps a little wats a rear firing setup? Ride: 2001 BMW325ci Headunit: Alpine ida-x305 High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm Amp for sub: MTX 4001d Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back (Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM) Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwkingaudio Posted August 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 yea im an audioque guy but i dont suggest aq everytime someone asks for what sub to buy.....but the 1k rms is very underrated..you can put 2k on the hdc3, and upwards of 3k but thats pushing the limits... how bout 2 3500d too two hdc3 12s? or 2 2200d too two btls? which is louder? Ride: 2001 BMW325ci Headunit: Alpine ida-x305 High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm Amp for sub: MTX 4001d Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back (Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM) Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 how bout 2 3500d too two hdc3 12s? or 2 2200d too two btls? which is louder? i wouldnt do 3500 to the hdc3s and i wouldnt know which one is louder but i know a guy named skip did a test with an hdc3 12 and a btl and i think they burped about the same off the same amount of power... MMM BASS OATS..ITS WHAT I HAVE FOR BREAKFAST 2 AudioQue HDC3 18'' subs Rockford Fosgate T1 6.5 mids MMATS 2000.05 XS Power D1200 Knukonceptz 1/0 Pioneer Premier DEH-P490iB " Shit I can roll a blunt better than those bitches in Havana!"- Uncle Elroy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwkingaudio Posted August 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 wat i really want is two btls and two 3500d, but its too expensive (bout $2400). so some other setups im thinkin are 2 btls, 2 2200ds (bout $1800). 2 hdc3s, 2 3500ds (bout 1900). 2 hdc3s, 3 2200ds (bout 1700). 2 btls, 3 2200ds (bout 2200 and maybe too spendy too). tell me wat u think is louder. and is wirin 3 amps hard? Ride: 2001 BMW325ci Headunit: Alpine ida-x305 High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm Amp for sub: MTX 4001d Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back (Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM) Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thewes Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 I hope I'm not coming off as a complete fucking dick but I just recommend you look into car audio a little a bit more before you make purchases. Knowledge is great man, and this hobby is especially easy to learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwkingaudio Posted August 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 i wouldnt do 3500 to the hdc3s and i wouldnt know which one is louder but i know a guy named skip did a test with an hdc3 12 and a btl and i think they burped about the same off the same amount of power... they sound the same, but do btls handle more power? meaning wit enough power they'd be louder? are the 3500ds too much power for the hdc3s? caus wat i was hopein is i'd buy the 3500ds now caus they r the amps i want, and just get the hdc3s now and not run full power to them. then when i got more money buy the btls, i could run full rms power to them caus they handle more, im pretty sure. Ride: 2001 BMW325ci Headunit: Alpine ida-x305 High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm Amp for sub: MTX 4001d Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back (Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM) Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwkingaudio Posted August 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 I hope I'm not coming off as a complete fucking dick but I just recommend you look into car audio a little a bit more before you make purchases. Knowledge is great man, and this hobby is especially easy to learn. trust me ive learned a ton from this site in the past week. i knew hardly anythin b4. Ride: 2001 BMW325ci Headunit: Alpine ida-x305 High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm Amp for sub: MTX 4001d Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back (Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM) Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 they sound the same, but do btls handle more power? meaning wit enough power they'd be louder? are the 3500ds too much power for the hdc3s? caus wat i was hopein is i'd buy the 3500ds now caus they r the amps i want, and just get the hdc3s now and not run full power to them. then when i got more money buy the btls, i could run full rms power to them caus they handle more, im pretty sure. depends...you can blow a btl with 3k..hell i bet some could even blow one with 2k going to it..buy the amps if you want just set the gains right with a dmm MMM BASS OATS..ITS WHAT I HAVE FOR BREAKFAST 2 AudioQue HDC3 18'' subs Rockford Fosgate T1 6.5 mids MMATS 2000.05 XS Power D1200 Knukonceptz 1/0 Pioneer Premier DEH-P490iB " Shit I can roll a blunt better than those bitches in Havana!"- Uncle Elroy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwkingaudio Posted August 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 depends...you can blow a btl with 3k..hell i bet some could even blow one with 2k going to it..buy the amps if you want just set the gains right with a dmm wat would a hdc3 blow at? and yea i was plannin on turnin down the gain, but wats a dmm? Ride: 2001 BMW325ci Headunit: Alpine ida-x305 High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm Amp for sub: MTX 4001d Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back (Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM) Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la negra Posted August 13, 2008 Report Share Posted August 13, 2008 idk as much about car audio as alot of the ppl here but i think u should go to other threads and just read what other ppl are running in their cars. theirs 5 pages on this thread of nothing and ppl trying to help u and ur not listening too them lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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