osixfrontier Posted August 17, 2008 Report Share Posted August 17, 2008 hi every one im more of an sql guy but seeing as a comp is coming up i thought id start this for suggestions and feed back..... I plan on entering 2 car in a local comp in hawaii.. we meter doors closed at the windshield 4 inches up 10 inches over sealed. in atest sesion i hit a 139.6 at 43 hz with a fi bl 10 of a z1 at about half its power as i was just testing. this is in a 89 civic hatch with 1400 and 2400 kinetik and i plan to add another 2400 and a ho alt all big three done plus im upgrading to 4/0 when my alt arrives....just cuz i get it for freee... the plan is to throw that sub into my girls car which is a 2008 kia spectra...im going to us a us amps xt4000d and for electricla im gonna use a 1200 upfront and a 1400 next to the amp....for us that is class a i hope to do a 140 because im changing the box to a box that has done a 142 in my friends car with the 10 inch bl so im opeing for a 140 more and im happy that should get me a 3rd place trophy in class a and in my car i have 2 15inch re sx's on the way and i plan to run them off add z1 at 1 ohm but im gonna test with a us amps ax3200de to see if there is a gain and if so i may buy it... but i hear that they are almost the same board so we will see... but along with that im gonna run a 3way active door setup so i can battle doors open if it comes to that .....i plan on sticking 2 re 8's and a set off re 6.5 comnets in the doors running off a xt800.4 and xt800.2 so im hoping it will kinda keep up with the 15's... for the design of the box for hte 15's im thinking pf going subs up port back 8 cubes after sub and port displacement with 16 square inches per... 45'd and doubled up top using 3/4 inch mdf.... that in hawaii is gonna be class d which we average 148+ in that class so i think i have a fighters chance...i have deadend my roof and hatch and have sealed all my windows except the drivers and [passengers with silicone... so it souns really good as far as no rattle.. i hope to hit 148+ so i dont look stupid but i also plan on beiang one of the few that can open my door and subout the venue. any pointers you folks can give....or any feed back on my year of hatch on what works best so far i ve only talked to one person who has owned a car like mines and he did a 154 ac mike with 2 15 inch lightning storms off of 2 jbl1200.1's......it was about 148 termlab so im hoping for atleast that maybe more seing as how i have about 400 more watts....i believe that the z1 in under rated....a direct swap from the saz3000d to the z1 gained me 1full db wiht the exact sae setu same electrical everything......im not looking to change brands of equiptment only may be swapping the fi 10 for 2 re 8's but only after i do some testing with the termlab...but can people tell me thier experiences with the z1 esides the frying....has anyone done reactive load scope testings....is the ax3200de any better? is sub up port back the best possible box as far a loud ? i dont wanna wall it...i want it to be decently loud and decent on the meter.... aloha, gary Quote 99 4runner walled 2 18 fi btl ufo psi recones 15 cubes 33hz port bottom behind the C pillar orion hcca 8000.1d 8 Polk audio mm 691 6x9 2 2000x4 hifonics 320 amp singer alt 3 g31 1 baby seat 1 booster seat and daily driven! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Bassick - Kimo Posted August 17, 2008 Report Share Posted August 17, 2008 Howzit bruddah, Well subs up port back is a proven design in hatch backs. From my buddys hatch he's seen the most gains with sub forward and port back. its basically the same design a lot CRX's would run in the street classes. So being the last box was tuned around 41hz I assume you intend on building a box that will play music. The RE SX slams pretty hard. I have buddy of mine who has 4 10" SX's and loves them. Definateey a strong woofer. Quote KIMO @teambassick http://www.teambassick.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osixfrontier Posted August 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2008 no my box is tuned to 35 hz for the 10 but my car peaks at 43 hz..... i really want it to play music.....how do i make a slot ported box subs forward port back...?...im gonna do 34hz as recomended by RE fo the 15's......but i dot like useing aero ports i ve seen the braks in big applications... Quote 99 4runner walled 2 18 fi btl ufo psi recones 15 cubes 33hz port bottom behind the C pillar orion hcca 8000.1d 8 Polk audio mm 691 6x9 2 2000x4 hifonics 320 amp singer alt 3 g31 1 baby seat 1 booster seat and daily driven! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Bassick - Kimo Posted August 17, 2008 Report Share Posted August 17, 2008 no my box is tuned to 35 hz for the 10 but my car peaks at 43 hz..... i really want it to play music.....how do i make a slot ported box subs forward port back...?...im gonna do 34hz as recomended by RE fo the 15's......but i dot like useing aero ports i ve seen the braks in big applications... yeah sub forward and port back normall calls for a flared port. slotted or flared either way is great for music. it comes down to tunning and box building. As for burping only the flared ports might give you a slight edge. However, your design from RE for 35hz subs up port is pretty much a win win combo for a hatch. It gets loud, it plays music and you'll definately turn some heads. Hell "basically" that is how Steve's box in his Tahoe. Quote KIMO @teambassick http://www.teambassick.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Slaps Posted August 17, 2008 Report Share Posted August 17, 2008 yeah sub forward and port back normall calls for a flared port. slotted or flared either way is great for music. it comes down to tunning and box building. As for burping only the flared ports might give you a slight edge. However, your design from RE for 35hz subs up port is pretty much a win win combo for a hatch. It gets loud, it plays music and you'll definately turn some heads. Hell "basically" that is how Steve's box in his Tahoe. flared ports ftw! Quote I Rock 4 Doors 4 More Whores! SMD SUPER SELLER my seller feedback http://www.stevemead...-mama-feedback/ more seller feedback http://www.stevemead...-slaps-yo-mama/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osixfrontier Posted August 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2008 well we came out with internal specs of 8.0x cubes after port nd woofer displacement ad bracing double baffled with 16 sq in of port per.....gonna go to home depot on sunday and pick up some supllies ad wal mart and get some el cheapo truck liner for the finish.....whowee then on to the kia build while my alt gets builted... Quote 99 4runner walled 2 18 fi btl ufo psi recones 15 cubes 33hz port bottom behind the C pillar orion hcca 8000.1d 8 Polk audio mm 691 6x9 2 2000x4 hifonics 320 amp singer alt 3 g31 1 baby seat 1 booster seat and daily driven! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted August 21, 2008 Report Share Posted August 21, 2008 GL with the build just remember take lots of pics Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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