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i started my kick panels and door pods but im having problems when wrapping the materials around the speaker ring i can never keep it straight theres always twists and stuff i was wondering how to get rid of it,i tried some real stretchy material and i still couldnt get it,

1998 gmc sierra

h/u:eclipse cd3200

sub:dd9518g d1.5

amp:jl e300/4

sub amp:dd m2a

front stage:id ctx65cs

dc power 270 alt

lots of kicker 1/0

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Here's two ideas.  First, if your speaker rings are wood, staple the fabrik to the ring,making sure that staples are close together all the way around the ring.  Make sure your material is taught the entire way around as well.

If your rings are plastic (or wood also) you can also use glue/liquid cement/ or hot glue to apply material.

Once these steps are done, resin away!

Second, **don't laugh**  use womens tights.  Ladies medium tights (flannel) provide for EXCELLENT forms within your work.  Again, make sure that it is stretched very tight.  If medium tights are too large, buy smaller ones.  Once pulled over your project, apply resin as normal. 

NOTE...this alone will not suffice.  Apply 'glass, or Duraglass to provide strength.  This is usually easier than pulling fleece to get your form.

Good luck!!

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It just occured to me that you may be talking about finishing material. :poster_oops:

Do you have a heat gun?  Heat guns work wonders when trying to stretch vinyl.

It is also possible that the area you are trying to cover just won't lend itself to the application of vinyl.  In that case, once your project is 'glassed and smoothed perfect, you can use SEM texture coating along with OEM paint to make factory like pieces

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so scratch the first post,me and my boy were talkin about the trim ring and how to do it,i told him it had to fit perfect but not made of wood and i couldnt fiberglass it cuz it couldn't be permanent,so the first words out his mouth are chicken wire,i was confused,but then he explained it, just hold the piece to the front of the box and clip it a lil larger that need and bend the ends back to fit between the top of the box and the roof,then he said when thats done,layer it with whatever and fiberglass it then just do the same for the sides,

if anybody has anyother ideas please post,should start in a week or so,

1998 gmc sierra

h/u:eclipse cd3200

sub:dd9518g d1.5

amp:jl e300/4

sub amp:dd m2a

front stage:id ctx65cs

dc power 270 alt

lots of kicker 1/0

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i didnt try tights,but i got some pany hose and tried it and it worked good,i'm gonna try 3 coats of it and see how that works

1998 gmc sierra

h/u:eclipse cd3200

sub:dd9518g d1.5

amp:jl e300/4

sub amp:dd m2a

front stage:id ctx65cs

dc power 270 alt

lots of kicker 1/0

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Share on other sites

Great!  I'm glad you tried it.  Next time though, use flannel tights.  They soak resin really well and provide for a harder/stronger base layer.  Oh, and don't use more pantyhose over the first application.  They allow for no strength.  Now it's time to apply fiberglass over the hose.

Question:  How do you like the form that the hose provided?  Was it easier to use than fleece or straight 'glass?

Remember, if you are using regular resin, you need to sand down the waxy finish before you can resin some more.  One way to save some time and skip that step is to use Laminating resin.  Laminating resin doesn't cure to a waxy finish, so your next coat of resin will stick easy.

You can use regular resin and just sand in between coats, or I usally work really really fast and apply several layers of 'glass at a time. (pre cut glass matt into squares to do this quick).

I'm glad your project is working out for you!

J

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honestly i wouldnt even watsh my time with a wall if i had to take it in and out, id to the box much like steves its alot easier in the long run and looks more professional imo.  To be honest its goingto be plenty loud laying down that you really dont need a wall.

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