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I am planning on running my first "big-boy" system very soon and will obviously have to do the needed upgrades first. I know my main amp will be a RF4000 in order to push 2 15" BTLs....with a small possibility of upgrading to two RF4000's in the far future after i learn more. I already know I need the big 3, some good deep cycle batts, and a new alternator....but about what size alt would be good to go with?

Also, who makes some good alternators?

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bro why not just get the biggest you can for your car? other options include 2 stock ones (more idle output) etc if you can fit it all

what car???

~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm

with Shock and Proximity

(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator

(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0

(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell

(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver

(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device

(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers

(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface

(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers

(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)

(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils

(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz

(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier

(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)

(1) Stinger Volt Meter

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Also, who makes some good alternators?

Powermaster, Iraggi, Mechman, DB Electrical, Excessive Amperage, plenty of choices

But yea, the bigger the better, or the more the merrier, or a combination of the two :D

1997 S10 EC

Whats in it

106.9 Sq.ft. Hushmat

DB Elec. 250 amp alt.

HC800&HC1400

MLA Module

Alpine 9886

Knukonceptz wires

Clarion EQS746

poopy Alpine door co-ax's

Change IS Coming

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I am planning on running my first "big-boy" system very soon and will obviously have to do the needed upgrades first. I know my main amp will be a RF4000 in order to push 2 15" BTLs....with a small possibility of upgrading to two RF4000's in the far future after i learn more. I already know I need the big 3, some good deep cycle batts, and a new alternator....but about what size alt would be good to go with?

Also, who makes some good alternators?

Wow. The same question, over & over. Not a drop of vehicle info.

Is this system going into your Mom's old Yugo, as soon as you get it off the concrete blocks it is resting on?

Or is it going into you brand new Viper as soon as it is delivered?

Since you can't seem to tell us what Year / Make / Model / Engine the vehicle is you plan to upgrade the alternator in, all I can do is guess. even within a single model & year, there may be 3 or 4 different alternators available.

'Link

missinglinkaudio

r91ks0.jpg

The United States Marine Corps. When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight - even if "it" belongs to the base commander...

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2008 4.6L V8 F150.

Your stock alternator is a 6G ford unit, rated @ 110 amps. The modular fords have a center mounted alternator, and not much else will fit in the space.

A 6G is available rated as high as 140 amps from the factory. Some people retrofit the older 3G units to the 6G equipped engines, but in your case this will be a no-go. The 2007 & up F150 has a CAN bus connection to the alternator. The computer controls charging, and there is no stator connection for the 3G type alternator.

A high output 6G could be built, but you should be wary of anyone that claims more than 200 amps from that case. Once you go past 200 amps, the alternator will have poor output at idle, and will run very hot. A n upgrade to 150 amps or so is much more reasonable for a daily driver.

'Link

missinglinkaudio

r91ks0.jpg

The United States Marine Corps. When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight - even if "it" belongs to the base commander...

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A high output 6G could be built, but you should be wary of anyone that claims more than 200 amps from that case. Once you go past 200 amps, the alternator will have poor output at idle, and will run very hot. A n upgrade to 150 amps or so is much more reasonable for a daily driver.

'Link

Very true statement, unless the alternator builder happens to be the only company who has spec'd out lower impedance rotors and regulators capable of supporting them. If that were the case, 150 amps at idle is a piece of cake at 260 amps peak... ;)

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