wL<3bass Posted September 11, 2008 Report Share Posted September 11, 2008 PM rusty Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decaf Posted September 11, 2008 Report Share Posted September 11, 2008 the car is a 1996 volkswagon Jetta. I either want 15's or 18's. Would 18"'s move a whole lot more air that 15"'s?(wind tunnel effect would be cool) Yes they are the most efficient size... But I also dont want to hurt the wallet too bad.... How much is hurting? but I heard FI's are inefficient(esp 18"'s), i heard its like the first 500w rms does absolutely nothing to them and is wasted due to the low speaker sensitivity. Nope... not tru... the motors are so strong it takes alot of power to counteract it... no power is wasted per sa....The mtx 8500's (12's) I have are rated at 92db sensitivity (this is at 2.83v... not 1v/1m which is more standard and realistic...)/b]which is pretty good, but they'll never eat 3000 or 2500watts rms lol.. nope never cause their motors are weak and dont take much to move@banginAltima : you are probably right. maybe I should run them @ 2ohm which would result in roughly 1000-1200 w rms. The 1 t1500-1bd I currently have is running @ 1 ohm, and gets very HOT! it shouldnt get hot... do u use a dmm to set gains.. is the voltage stable... the amp is only as efficient as ur electrical supporting it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted September 11, 2008 Report Share Posted September 11, 2008 it shouldnt get hot... do u use a dmm to set gains.. is the voltage stable... the amp is only as efficient as ur electrical supporting it x2 and also sensitivity on subs is pretty senseless when your going for spl. Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S1R-BLUNTZWORTH Posted September 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2008 it shouldnt get hot... do u use a dmm to set gains.. is the voltage stable... the amp is only as efficient as ur electrical supporting it haha im not that technical, i dont have a multi-meter to set gains . But I do have a handy little voltage meter that plugs into the cigarette/asscessory plug, and it never really drops below 12.5 volts. I just upgraded my stock 90a alt to a 120 amp alternator, but I will still need a battery or two in the trunk i think after getting the other amp. I hope I dont have to build a wall or smthg like that if I go with 18"'s.. BTW I found the DC website finally and it looks like the Level 4 XL's would be optimal for these amps(i didnt see pricing sheet though..). I didn't realize before how small of selection I would have regarding subs, when dealing with 1500wrms per speaker. The big name brands' "top shelf" subs are only rated 1000wrms . Im a noob, I hope I can buy an enclosure and dont have to build one or a wall... Quote Amps - 2x t1500-1bd Subs - 2x hdc315's(copper d2's) Deck - 1940's Amplitude Modulation radio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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