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New Alternator Working Nice But


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alright guys well i got my 250amp alternator today from mechman and installed it to me it got a good deal louder and my amp stays really cool. cool to the touch barely even warm the only thing is that with my stock one it would never get this loud but i would hardly ever dim but now i dim alot more with the bigger alt you think it because im getting more power from the amp now that i have the 250amp instead of something like 90-130. the amp is a fi btl of a sundown 3000d. i got a pretty big lead acid battery

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some of the higher amp alternators cant sustain that good of an output at idle, something around 70-90amps. rev your engine to 2krpm's and see if it will dim still. if it still does, do the Big 3 and get a deep-cycle battery to replace the lead-acid one in the front.

ight but on the test sheet it did 150 amps at idle
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You better have doen the big 3, otherwise doing that alt upgrade was virtually useless. Not to mention you should look into a different battery. Get an AGM style battery by Kinetik, Power Master, Stinger, Odyssey, Optima etc.

i upgraded the positive alt to batt cable to 1/0 awg but need to do the rest . im thinking of getting a d3400 power.. u guys think thats engough
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My HO kicks in at around 1200 rpm

Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out.

not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. :)

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i upgraded the positive alt to batt cable to 1/0 awg but need to do the rest . im thinking of getting a d3400 power.. u guys think thats engough

Do the rest of the Big 3 first and then let us know what the deal is.

Member since 25 Jun 2006

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Sounds like most HO alts, lousy output at idle which is where the output is needed the most. If the test sheet says 150amps at idle and your lights are dimming where they didn't before then its low or no output at idle. I have no dimming with dual stock alts and 20,000 watts at idle NO revving. You should still get a better batt , but I hated having to rev my car for demo's and found stock alts to be more stable longer. As with most things what works for one don't work for all. Call him, about the low output at idle he seems to answer any questions or concerns customers are having. Good luck hope you get it running better.

MLA

missinglinkaudio

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Sounds like most HO alts, lousy output at idle which is where the output is needed the most. If the test sheet says 150amps at idle and your lights are dimming where they didn't before then its low or no output at idle. I have no dimming with dual stock alts and 20,000 watts at idle NO revving. You should still get a better batt , but I hated having to rev my car for demo's and found stock alts to be more stable longer. As with most things what works for one don't work for all. Call him, about the low output at idle he seems to answer any questions or concerns customers are having. Good luck hope you get it running better.

MLA

The dyno sheet is a computer generated graph of amperage output vs. alternator rotor rpm, and is accurate to within .1 volt. The idle # for rotor speed is 2400 rpm.

That vehicle should have a 6.5" crankshaft pulley, and the alternator is equipped with a 1.75" pulley.

6.5 divided by 1.75 = a 3.7:1 pulley ratio.

Asuming that the vehicle idles at 650 rpm,

650 x 3.7 = 2400 rpm at the rotor.

Our 250 amp units do not have lousy output at idle, they produce exactly 150 amps or more at that speed, or else they don't get shipped.

More realistically, you are starting off at a higher voltage, and still expieriencing voltage drop under bass hits due to the single flooded battery or lack of a good ground path. The dimming is more noticable because the "swing" in voltage is more pronounced, because the voltage is higher to begin with. If the alternator had low output at idle (low voltage) he would not have noticed a signifigant gain in loudness at idle. Furthermore, no alternator's regulator can react to bass hits fast enough to supply all of the necessary curent every instant, (due to soft-start circuitry in the regulator) that is why a battery with a high discharge rate is neccessary to smooth out the peaks and valleys in current demand while playing music.

Upgrade the battery or add another, and make sure that you have a 1/0 ground path for the battery, alternator and amp.

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