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Us Amps Md3d "protect" Light Flashing On & Off


newls1

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Guys, I thought I have been going crazy this last week! I thought my issue was the simple case of "getting used to what you have" type of issue! but for the last week my stereo just hasnt been "hitting the lows" like it did. Please read on, and I'll explain my issue.

2 weeks ago I re-installed my 18" Fi BL's as they were sent to Fi for Recone. While my subs were out, I took the liberty of running a second run of 0ga power wire to my 2 rear batts (2 Kinetic HC800's), added 5 runs of 1/2 all thread in my box for added strength, installed the stinger digital voltage gauge, installed a 150amp (04) Tahoe model alt in my 02 Tahoe, etc........ During the MONTH I went without my subs, my electrical systems seemed perfect, and my 2 rear batts were charged completely as no power source was taking power from those 2 rear batts. When the subs came in, I very quickly installed them, and the Tahoe was fucking jammin! My steering wheel was shaking like crazy, my wiper blades were bouncing off the windshield, etc....... 2 weeks go by, and this past week I've noticed the stereo just doesnt sound the same anymore, and thought I was just getting used to what I had, you know what I mean?..... Well, tonight I went to my jobs warehouse, and decided to make the stereo loud, and try tuning the amp while fully loaded, and NOTICED THIS, While playing "ANY" song with a LOW BASS NOTE TO IT, the amp (MD3D) red protect light would illuminate, and everytime it did that, you could tell power was getting cut in half. The amp operates 100% and never shuts off EVER, and never even gets warm to the touch. Is my issue here simply not enough amps/volts to sustain 3000+ watts. Here is exactly what my electrical system consists of:

1. brand new acdelco 150amp alt

2. red top optima up front

3. 2 kinetic HC800 in rear (small batts I know)

4. BIGIII everything 0ga

5. 2 runs of 0ga to rear batts

6. Rear batts grounded to truck frame

7. 2 runs of 0ga to rear bat to other rear batt

Thats really it for electrical. I was hoping this issue is electrical and not the amp. Would replacing the 2 HC800 batts with a powermaster D3100, and a MLA module help me out here? Please help me out here, this is really pissing me off in a very bad way.

appreciate any input

Edited by newls1

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Sounds like low voltage protect indeed. Put a volt meter across the amps terminals and watch it when you're bumping... tones are nice as they give you a good solid reading.

ok, so what is my next step? MLA module, HO ALT, big batt,etc.....

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doesnt seem like a voltage issue at all.

your amp isnt putting out 3k rms even on its best day. I've ran the exact amp you have on a yellow top and stock alternator and had no problems at all. i think theres an issue with your amp

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doesnt seem like a voltage issue at all.

your amp isnt putting out 3k rms even on its best day. I've ran the exact amp you have on a yellow top and stock alternator and had no problems at all. i think theres an issue with your amp

actually, the ~3000rms watts is the combined wattage for all my amps together, not just the MD3D. My issue is a voltage issue, and here is how I found out: I work at a Summit/Jegs type Hi performance parts store, and took out 2 Exide XRF-31D batts (AGM 1180cca 105AH batts) replaced my 2 puny HC800 with them, and the fucking bass was thru the roof, and my stinger voltage gauge never dipped below 14.1v. Batts made a huge difference. I guess the HC800 just dont have the capacity to sustain my MD3D, and MD43 amps. I am going to order a MLA module next paycheck, with the hopes of sustaining ~15v or high ~14.7+V's while bumping, and with radio on low, 15v+ can effectively charge my batts.......

I love my staffie :good:

So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny

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MLA won't make a difference.

You're pulling too much current, which is making the voltage drop. You're already in to battery country - you either need more batteries or a HO Alt (if you get a HO alt may as well get an MLA at the time though)

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10.x volts fo' life!

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actually, the ~3000rms watts is the combined wattage for all my amps together, not just the MD3D. My issue is a voltage issue, and here is how I found out: I work at a Summit/Jegs type Hi performance parts store, and took out 2 Exide XRF-31D batts (AGM 1180cca 105AH batts) replaced my 2 puny HC800 with them, and the fucking bass was thru the roof, and my stinger voltage gauge never dipped below 14.1v. Batts made a huge difference. I guess the HC800 just dont have the capacity to sustain my MD3D, and MD43 amps. I am going to order a MLA module next paycheck, with the hopes of sustaining ~15v or high ~14.7+V's while bumping, and with radio on low, 15v+ can effectively charge my batts.......

thats odd i have the exact same amps with no issues at all

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