Considering A Build, And Want Your Help!

[Sniper]

I just hope I Get some badass output ^^

[Sniper]

came back from school today with a new amplifier, bought for 40$ off my friend Josh, its a Kenwood KAC-829, and frankly, this thing sounds awesome on the highs, no distortion since my gain is set lower for my 50w speakers

[Neo_frog]

Considering the name of this topic is "Considering A Build, And Want Your Help!" you shouldn't knock these guys for telling you what's going to happen with your setup.

They are not bashing your numbers, they are trying to explain what is really going to happen. Especially with a sub as big as that. Nominal ratings for amplifier outputs can be very unreliable.

Many of these guys have walls or just really big installs and there's probably thousands of collective years of experience on this site. I would take everything they say and write it down.

Since you're building a wall with "4000W" I would suggest building very slow and think about every aspect of the system before you start installing. It sux putting a wall in your car then realizing you forgot to run RCAs or that the ones you had were bad (experience) so you have to rip it out and do it over.

Make a list, ask for advice, and do it right the first time so you can pound proudly!

EDIT: Or hell. If you're willing to drive about an hour west I could help you out. I've had four walls in my car and I know what to look for.

[Neo_frog]

What should I do for highs since this is gonna be a wall setup? I mean I cant just use fronts, these speakers are tiny in the front! D: I havent measured em (as a matter of fact all ive done is ran wire : and SE says they're 6x8s, which doesnt sound right for a front >.>

You could potentially build little boxes for the rears into the wall inside it, or you could build a floor board under the wall and put as many speakers as you like down there.

Next question directed toward the forum!

BATTERY!!!

Since I know caps will be useless on this system, I need to figure out how im setting this, im also upgrading the Big-3 to 1/0 and the alt to something bigger, so anyway, lets see what we've got to work with,

I want to replace the starter, and I want to add one at the rear, tell me what you think would be best for budget!

Budgeting? Well I would recommend at least a 200A alternator for charging since it will handle about 3500 watts with the right batteries without a problem (every car/amp is different). As for batteries, buy some small Kinetik batteries or any other battery which is meant for car audio. They have extremely high output and will do well with your setup.

[Sniper]

Neo, where you at up here bro? I see your in Indy ^^

and that actually sounds like a good idea to make small boxes inside the wall, thinking maybe, 6.5 mids and .75 tweets?

And i'm considering buying a single Kinetik HC600, would that be good on the setup?

[Neo_frog]

Neo, where you at up here bro? I see your in Indy ^^

and that actually sounds like a good idea to make small boxes inside the wall, thinking maybe, 6.5 mids and .75 tweets?

And i'm considering buying a single Kinetik HC600, would that be good on the setup?

Any Kinetik battery will supply gratuitous amounts of power until it dies. They are the Spartans of batteries haha. And they charge as fast as they drain with the right alternator. They are known to power cars beyond 180dB now.

Your high and midrange speakers are your choice. I personally just go with powerful speakers as opposed to components, and I don't do a lot of them. My floor board under my current setup will have room for three more sets of speakers if I need to put them in, but the build is still in progress and I probably won't care to add more. I just turn the bass down for easy listening.

I live in Crown Point about an hour or so from you. 15mi south east of Gary.

[wL<3bass]

I'm not really laughing at the amp, just pointing out that you're running a MONSTER of a sub, which was originally designed as a competition SPL sub. The suspension (mostly the spiders) is extremely stiff and despite the enormous motor, it takes a solid whack of power to get up and going. I'm talking 2500wrms upwards. The ratings don't mean fish, that amp will probably push no more than 1200wrms @ 1 ohm. So after impedance rise you have like 700w and the MT is just going to sit there. It'll be loud(ish) but it could be so much more.

Oh well, whatever gets it going for now I guess. Just be damn sure that you don't think hmm that's quiet and mash the gain up, cos as soon as you clip that bad boy your coils will be up in smoke. There's no pole vent on those subs so if you're feeding it low power clipping you're not even moving the sub a little bit to keep it cool, you're just roasting it. Word of warning

EXACTLY.....what will happen I give it 2weeks to 1 month on that amp before he gets tired of it being "quiet" and turns that gain up and poof goes the MT.

[Sniper]

im not the one to screw with gain, I set it with a volt meter using a 50hz tone with a 1ohm load on it, set it to the 1200 mark, which will be 120V if its the right amp, and trust me, I dont fuck with the gain because if you raise it you will get distortion, and its distortion that kills speakers, not underpowering, not overpowering (judging for the fact you dont go and put its the amount of power handling on the easy side, by which im saying putting a 300w rms speaker on a 5Kwrms amp, you get the idea), anyway, could a mod use their powers to move this to the members build thread? im ready

[Sniper]

Any Kinetik battery will supply gratuitous amounts of power until it dies. They are the Spartans of batteries haha. And they charge as fast as they drain with the right alternator. They are known to power cars beyond 180dB now.

Your high and midrange speakers are your choice. I personally just go with powerful speakers as opposed to components, and I don't do a lot of them. My floor board under my current setup will have room for three more sets of speakers if I need to put them in, but the build is still in progress and I probably won't care to add more. I just turn the bass down for easy listening.

I live in Crown Point about an hour or so from you. 15mi south east of Gary.

thats about 45m from here, cause it usually takes me an hour to get to chicago

[dwright27]

I'm not really laughing at the amp, just pointing out that you're running a MONSTER of a sub, which was originally designed as a competition SPL sub. The suspension (mostly the spiders) is extremely stiff and despite the enormous motor, it takes a solid whack of power to get up and going. I'm talking 2500wrms upwards. The ratings don't mean fish, that amp will probably push no more than 1200wrms @ 1 ohm. So after impedance rise you have like 700w and the MT is just going to sit there. It'll be loud(ish) but it could be so much more.

Oh well, whatever gets it going for now I guess. Just be damn sure that you don't think hmm that's quiet and mash the gain up, cos as soon as you clip that bad boy your coils will be up in smoke. There's no pole vent on those subs so if you're feeding it low power clipping you're not even moving the sub a little bit to keep it cool, you're just roasting it. Word of warning

.boon,

i know you are very intelligent and knowledgeable but i have an 18" MT on a Sony 9001GTR and it FUCKING SLAMS!! only around 500 RMS

im not saying im doing 150's but i am in the low - mid 140's @ 30 hz