Considering A Build, And Want Your Help!

[Sniper]

Boon, if you know anything about class D, when the amp is a certified CEA Class D, and this one is, it means its efficiency is above 90%, so take your text and shove it, bashing equipment is not the help I want.

[jonnylowkon]

Boon, if you know anything about class D, when the amp is a certified CEA Class D, and this one is, it means its efficiency is above 90%, so take your text and shove it, bashing equipment is not the help I want.

i had no idea that they cert amps like that ... seriously he has no build post and probly is just one of those " i read it on the net " know it alls.. now james i know has lots of experiance with amps and i would take his word on stuff for sure not some kid names boon with no info on his pro or anything to back up this so called knowledge .. i honestly have no idea what it puts out max rms since i have only used it in a 4 ohm load

[jonnylowkon]

maybe that 200$ for the crap amp should've been spent on real 0g wire

you wouldnt not believe the crap that passe as 0g these days. I had monster, tsunami, and "installation bay" 0g all next to eachother, the installation bay barely passes as 4g, and the tsunami was a good deal smaller than the monster. No wonder the monster costs 5$ a foot....

Do stuff right and dont cheap out, or dont spend the cash and keep it small. Whatever you do, just do it right. Dont push a 2500rms speaker with an amp i cant see doing 1200 watts all day

ps, my 1200watt amp is fused at 160amps...might have cost a hundred and some more than yours, but atleast it can do what it's rated for, reliably, and cleanly, running cool. So it right the first time, you dont wanna be replacing stuff down the line.

lmao JBL is crap IMO

[Sniper]

maybe that 200$ for the crap amp should've been spent on real 0g wire

you wouldnt not believe the crap that passe as 0g these days. I had monster, tsunami, and "installation bay" 0g all next to eachother, the installation bay barely passes as 4g, and the tsunami was a good deal smaller than the monster. No wonder the monster costs 5$ a foot....

Do stuff right and dont cheap out, or dont spend the cash and keep it small. Whatever you do, just do it right. Dont push a 2500rms speaker with an amp i cant see doing 1200 watts all day

ps, my 1200watt amp is fused at 160amps...might have cost a hundred and some more than yours, but atleast it can do what it's rated for, reliably, and cleanly, running cool. So it right the first time, you dont wanna be replacing stuff down the line.

I guess you didnt know im 15 then, I dont have money to buy something like a T4K, and now that I look at it, this thing has a rating of 160, 4x30 equaling 120, with an internal "hot" fuse of 40, meaning its 160 total, a thermal fuse works like a circuit breaker in your house, it can turn off and on, if the overload is too much, it is bypassed and it blows the 30s, basically saying, since my electronics system is going to be 14.4, this equals 2710w with the efficiency of this amp being 85, if you dont believe me, research the chips used in the amp, in other words, its stable at 2200W @ 1ohm, so please all you haters, suck it.

[Sniper]

Also, my stinger 0/1 is real wire... is yours real wire?

and another thing, the wire I use on my room setup is Excalibur, some badass wire from the 80s and early 90s. (which is 8awg, more than enough for my 600W and 400W amps, which after reading into what they're fuse ratings is, the kenwood 600 is 720W, and the SoundStorm is 381W, both are being used for my higher range speakers, the mids and tweets, meaning I'll have 1001W for my highs ^^

[Applejack]

I guess you didnt know im 15 then, I dont have money to buy something like a T4K, and now that I look at it, this thing has a rating of 160, 4x30 equaling 120, with an internal "hot" fuse of 40, meaning its 160 total, a thermal fuse works like a circuit breaker in your house, it can turn off and on, if the overload is too much, it is bypassed and it blows the 30s, basically saying, since my electronics system is going to be 14.4, this equals 2710w with the efficiency of this amp being 85, if you dont believe me, research the chips used in the amp, in other words, its stable at 2200W @ 1ohm, so please all you haters, suck it.

wow im running on empty i need sleep, i could have sworn that said "If the overlord is to much" and i read it twice rofl. umm look over there! *sneaks away*

[raytard]

johnny, i used to agree with you "Junky But Loud" and whatnot, but these amps do what they say and do it well, for a reasonable price, i cant complain. That junky part is pretty evident when the rca's pull out lmao. Everyone and their grandmas has alpine or rockford, and I didnt know about sundown when i bought all that stuff. Not to mention its so darn tempting when something new comes out and the ups truck delivers a pallate of it to the shop, to try it out

[Sniper]

wow im running on empty i need sleep, i could have sworn that said "If the overlord is to much" and i read it twice rofl. umm look over there! *sneaks away*

I lol'd!

[dwright27]

boon i use my MT in 6.5 cubes tuned @ 28 hz.

500 RMS gets it moving NICELY!

and i wish i could afford an amp that does 3000 RMS right now to really bring this monster alive!

[Sniper]

now for more updates!

I just got off the phone with wes while I was having fun messing with the kiddies (no homo) and we worked out an agreement, he has some extra resin, and has agreed that if I help him strip his car tommarow for his 09 build (he has 8 JL 12w1v2s on a single PA3000DB, holy fucking shit its loud, 150.7@38, not to mention its a wall, dunno what its tuned to) that he'll build me boxes for inside the wall for my Pyles and Tang band speakers, and he'll help me get the new tang band 4s in the dash. Meaning im probably gonna be pretty busy tommarow!