Safe Alternator Voltage For D2400

[Guest KyleCannon]

Good to know, what is the best way to talk to you more on this, could you PM me with some kind of contact info? AIM or something? email is also great as well, let me know as well as on the price!

[MECHMAN]

Yes, there is more to it than that! Putting anything other than the OEM regulator in your alternator is going backwards! OEM Denso voltage regulators are damn near bulletproof, aftermarket ones, not so much.. Spend the extra money and get something that will actually help your situation, not make it worse.. If 'Link can build one for my '07 Tundra, he can build one for your Avalon... Rob

The 91102R regulator is pretty much the only way to have enough Field circuit capacity to support the rotor draw of any rotor strong enough to produce decent low RPM ouput. A stock Denso rotor isn't going to do SQUAT at low RPM, nor is a Denso UNIT for that matter, especially when overwound to produce any signifigant amperage. The adjustable regulator we (and many other companies) use is physically 4 times the size of a stock Denso Piece, and houses much beefier components, which is why it is capable of supporting well over 12 amp rotor draw, wheras the Denso will pop right at 7 amps. The same regulator we use, has been used by more winning SPL competitors than any other regulator for these reasons, just FYI.

...and according to the Product Engineer at powermaster (Scottie Johnson) the maximum safe charge voltage for XS power batteries is 14.9V. He comes from a Db drag background with 3 world championships, and was the one who origionally spec'd the XS power batteries. You can contact him directly in the Powermaster batteries section of this forum.

[MECHMAN]

DC is alot bigger alt company than most and even they don't try what we do , they would rather you the customer get a quality engineered product from us than something rigged up. All in all we don't make alts so more power to them but its kinda cheesy bashing us in PM's when in the beginning they were slammin us saying 15v is not a safe level too charge at. Now they are all about 15+v funny huh!!

Nothing that we do is "rigged up". The Transpo regulator in queston was developed by Regitar, a multi-million dollar OE supplier of electrical components. Respectfully, they are about a 1,000 times bigger and more technilogically advanced than MLA audio, MechMan, and DC power all put together.

...and as far as charging at 15+ volts, there is still no question that it will shorten the life of most AGM batteries, that is not our opinion, that is the word directly from the battery manufacturers. I will still tell customers that is not a good idea, but as I'm sure you know, you have to sell what the customer wants. If the customer wants to reduce the life of their batteries in exchange for another 75 watts, that is up to them. The advantage to the adjustable regulator, is that they can set it wherever they choose.

[Guest Just_Rob]

The 91102R regulator is pretty much the only way to have enough Field circuit capacity to support the rotor draw of any rotor strong enough to produce decent low RPM ouput. A stock Denso rotor isn't going to do SQUAT at low RPM, nor is a Denso UNIT for that matter, especially when overwound to produce any signifigant amperage. The adjustable regulator we (and many other companies) use is physically 4 times the size of a stock Denso Piece, and houses much beefier components, which is why it is capable of supporting well over 12 amp rotor draw, wheras the Denso will pop right at 7 amps. The same regulator we use, has been used by more winning SPL competitors than any other regulator for these reasons, just FYI.

...and according to the Product Engineer at powermaster (Scottie Johnson) the maximum safe charge voltage for XS power batteries is 14.9V. He comes from a Db drag background with 3 world championships, and was the one who origionally spec'd the XS power batteries. You can contact him directly in the Powermaster batteries section of this forum.

Great advice Matt, GREAT!!! So, your suggesting the customer take out his OEM regulator, convert it to external, and leave him with a non functioning charging system? Yeah, the alternator will charge, the customer gets to drive around looking at that glaring red battery light that is now on because the OEM regulator is GONE, it wont charge any more than it did because the rotor in that 80 amp alternator only has a 4 amp coil in it to begin with.. So, you can dial the voltage up *some*, maybe .5v but you STILL ONLY HAVE AN 80 AMP ALTERNATOR!! Yeah, GREAT advice Matt, sell the customer something that doesnt fix his problem or give him any additional AMPERAGE...

Denso alternators are a freaking workhorses, and against anything else its size (130mm) they will flat run circles around, from ANY manufacturer. Your barking up the wrong tree there, Denso alternators are as close to bulletproof as they come.. Denso alternators that dont do squat at low RPM, dude, are you serious?? RPM for RPM they will outrun bigger 3G, 4G, AND 6G alternators... But hey, what do I know, that's just what the engineering team at Denso tells me, what do they know.. Their just a bunch of 6 figure salaried engineering guys that work for the largest rotating electrical manufacturing company in the world....

And for the record, 911-02R regulators are made by TRANSPO, not REGITAR... 2 TOTALLY different companies, one whose manufacturing is based in mainland CHINA, the others in TAIWAN... From someone who's supposed to know about these things, you could at least get your companies straight.... 911-02R's have their place, and it's on BIG alternators, on competition vehicles that actually need 16+v that actually have rotors that CAN pull 12A field currents, something that VERY few alternators are actually capable of.. AND, that is IF they last long enough..

[missinglink]

Easy just_rob LOL

On the other note "It is what it is" bro!

MLA

[missinglink]

Nothing that we do is "rigged up". The Transpo regulator in queston was developed by Regitar, a multi-million dollar OE supplier of electrical components. Respectfully, they are about a 1,000 times bigger and more technilogically advanced than MLA audio, MechMan, and DC power all put together.

...and as far as charging at 15+ volts, there is still no question that it will shorten the life of most AGM batteries, that is not our opinion, that is the word directly from the battery manufacturers. I will still tell customers that is not a good idea, but as I'm sure you know, you have to sell what the customer wants. If the customer wants to reduce the life of their batteries in exchange for another 75 watts, that is up to them. The advantage to the adjustable regulator, is that they can set it wherever they choose.

Trust me we know we all small but at same time untill we came out with or modules the only answer was external regulator options which is so old school and out dated for the newer cars. External is perfect for competitors no dought but still does not fix or address how it works with cars computers/PCM's. Even OHIO gen sends people to us with voltage issues , working together helps everyone!!!

If battery life IS Shortened I would rather have them at full potiential than 80% full which is what 13.6/13.8 volts will get you. This is stated BY GM as well. Steve Meades Batteries @ 15.3v for 7/8 months still strong , my Hummers batteries 1 year @ 15.8v still strong , Kenitik's sema booth truck runs the module @ 14.8/15.1 and their fine and they promote us , Lord baccus has had his module for 8/9 months now @ 15.4+v at times. ect.... All safely controlling the voltage without battery damage and without Dash lights and codes BTW.

This would work better if you sell your alts and let us sell our modules so we both can have a piece of the pie and support our families!!! This is totally my opinion but I love my daughter and try very hard to make sure she has a better childhood than I did. So this is more than just "sales" to us , its about building relationships.

Thanks to those who suport us as we grow,

MLA

[MECHMAN]

Great advice Matt, GREAT!!! So, your suggesting the customer take out his OEM regulator, convert it to external, and leave him with a non functioning charging system? Yeah, the alternator will charge, the customer gets to drive around looking at that glaring red battery light that is now on because the OEM regulator is GONE, it wont charge any more than it did because the rotor in that 80 amp alternator only has a 4 amp coil in it to begin with.. So, you can dial the voltage up *some*, maybe .5v but you STILL ONLY HAVE AN 80 AMP ALTERNATOR!! Yeah, GREAT advice Matt, sell the customer something that doesnt fix his problem or give him any additional AMPERAGE...

Denso alternators are a freaking workhorses, and against anything else its size (130mm) they will flat run circles around, from ANY manufacturer. Your barking up the wrong tree there, Denso alternators are as close to bulletproof as they come.. Denso alternators that dont do squat at low RPM, dude, are you serious?? RPM for RPM they will outrun bigger 3G, 4G, AND 6G alternators... But hey, what do I know, that's just what the engineering team at Denso tells me, what do they know.. Their just a bunch of 6 figure salaried engineering guys that work for the largest rotating electrical manufacturing company in the world....

And for the record, 911-02R regulators are made by TRANSPO, not REGITAR... 2 TOTALLY different companies, one whose manufacturing is based in mainland CHINA, the others in TAIWAN... From someone who's supposed to know about these things, you could at least get your companies straight.... 911-02R's have their place, and it's on BIG alternators, on competition vehicles that actually need 16+v that actually have rotors that CAN pull 12A field currents, something that VERY few alternators are actually capable of.. AND, that is IF they last long enough..

Well Rob, you might want to have a little more information before you take away from your own credibility. We don't sell ANY denso Alternators, (or any small alternator for that matter) we exclusively build large case alternators, and then custom machine them so that they fit in place of pathetic little 80 amp Densos. Perhaps if you knew anything about my product (or the alternator industry for that matter) you would know that Regitar was bought out by Transpo. You might then also know that we include regulator harness adaptors so that the customer's alternator light still FUNCTIONS NORMALLY, as our external regulated units come pre-wired with a plug and play harness adaptor that allows the 91102R to get allong with the vehicle's stock wiring harness.

We would never sugest hooking an external regulator up to a stock alternator, or running a stock small-case style alternator for any reason in a car-audio application. I am well aware of the excellent durability that Denso units have to offer. I am also well aware that they are pretty much maxed out in stock fasion, unless you want something that doesn't perform at all at idle speeds whatsoever. THIS IS WHY WE ONLY USE LARGE CASE ALTERNATORS, something that no-one else is doing right now. You should never underestimate someone's kowledge, I don't think that you are an idiot, just a little un-informed about what we sell.

[MECHMAN]

Trust me we know we all small but at same time untill we came out with or modules the only answer was external regulator options which is so old school and out dated for the newer cars. External is perfect for competitors no dought but still does not fix or address how it works with cars computers/PCM's. Even OHIO gen sends people to us with voltage issues , working together helps everyone!!!

If battery life IS Shortened I would rather have them at full potiential than 80% full which is what 13.6/13.8 volts will get you. This is stated BY GM as well. Steve Meades Batteries @ 15.3v for 7/8 months still strong , my Hummers batteries 1 year @ 15.8v still strong , Kenitik's sema booth truck runs the module @ 14.8/15.1 and their fine and they promote us , Lord baccus has had his module for 8/9 months now @ 15.4+v at times. ect.... All safely controlling the voltage without battery damage and without Dash lights and codes BTW.

This would work better if you sell your alts and let us sell our modules so we both can have a piece of the pie and support our families!!! This is totally my opinion but I love my daughter and try very hard to make sure she has a better childhood than I did. So this is more than just "sales" to us , its about building relationships.

Thanks to those who suport us as we grow,

MLA

I always tell my customers that our product will work just fine with an MLA module if they ask. I have never said that the higher resting voltage won't make the system louder, I merely side with the battery manufacturers on what their optimum charging voltage is. The fact remains however, that a 91102R will work just fine in a daily driven application, and if properly wired, can appear and function the same as an OEM unit. (in 98% of applications) I have no beef with MLA, but I think Ol' Rob might want to settle down just a tad.

[98HOEONSIXEZ]

Since our company only does voltage control and we are the "link" behind Steve's 15.3v system I think we can get you on the right track. Here is Steve's post :http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=18890 Here is a photo as well from Steve's Tahoe with our modules voltage increase.

.

To start off what type of car are you dealing with?

Year, make, model, motor?

15.5/15.7v on a single battery is a little high, you can run them at 14.8/15v safely on single battery setups. Adding batteries will help soak up higher voltages but 15.5v should be a flucuating voltage. Our Pro series module allows you to run 15.6/15.8v on the high side and 14.6/14.8v on the low side. High side is great for comps with the ability to switch to the low side to stay in a 14.7v class or for the drive home.

Any questions let us know!

MLA

MISSING LINK AUDIO MODULE = DCPOWERINC ALTS = THE ULTIMATE VOLTAGE CONTROL/ALTERNATOR COMBINATION.period. FTMFW!

[dmanson]

I always tell my customers that our product will work just fine with an MLA module if they ask. I have never said that the higher resting voltage won't make the system louder, I merely side with the battery manufacturers on what their optimum charging voltage is. The fact remains however, that a 91102R will work just fine in a daily driven application, and if properly wired, can appear and function the same as an OEM unit. (in 98% of applications) I have no beef with MLA, but I think Ol' Rob might want to settle down just a tad.

i definitely asked it my 225 Mechman alternator could be ran with a MLA module and i got a yes from Mechman.