Need Help On Subbox

[fischy fisch]

hope i writing this in the right place but i need help with the enclosure i built the original box from the spects the dude gave me @ spl (the subs are splw 12in ) his box size was 2 cu. with a port 25sq. in x 13.5 it was an ok box for a little till it broke it was doing 135.1 @49hz can anyone help me with the new box need spects and would like it to be ported at 40hz just need to be able to bass race in the 139.9 class

[HHR Ed]

hope i writing this in the right place but i need help with the enclosure i built the original box from the spects the dude gave me @ spl (the subs are splw 12in ) his box size was 2 cu. with a port 25sq. in x 13.5 it was an ok box for a little till it broke it was doing 135.1 @49hz can anyone help me with the new box need spects and would like it to be ported at 40hz just need to be able to bass race in the 139.9 class

I dont have experience with those subs but can tell you that more port area will help.

what kind of car?

[fischy fisch]

it's a 2005 toyota corolla and the port it has 2 ports and both are 12.5x2x13.5

[HHR Ed]

it's a 2005 toyota corolla and the port it has 2 ports and both are 12.5x2x13.5

SPL wise, the best for a trunk car is to fire the sub and port forward and totally seal off the trunk from the cabin.

2 cubes may be good for that sub but I am not sure. SPL wise it would be best to have one port at least 75-100 sq inches of port area. You currently have 2) 25 sq in ports for a total of 50 sq inches, thats too small for SPL, but can be good for regular listening.

[fischy fisch]

ok so how will i know what the port will be tuned @ if i double my port area but still keep the same dimetisons and where should my port be located at

the old engineer said 2.4 cu with a 25sq in x 16.75 i know know if that helps

[HHR Ed]

ok so how will i know what the port will be tuned @ if i double my port area but still keep the same dimetisons and where should my port be located at

the old engineer said 2.4 cu with a 25sq in x 16.75 i know know if that helps

are you going for good sounding or just high SPL?

there are plenty of box design programs that you can use if you have the specs of the sub.

Personally, I just build a box to what I feel would be good, then fine tune the port afterwards. But I have been building boxes since 1992.

I would put the subs on the passenger side and the port on the driver side, make the port as high as the box (12" if the box is 12" high) Then do the width about 10" and length of 16". Then I would shrink the port area or length as I see fit.

Or I would use a 10 or 12" round flared port and adjust the length to fine tune.

This is how I build sometimes and it always works for me.

[fischy fisch]

are you going for good sounding or just high SPL?

there are plenty of box design programs that you can use if you have the specs of the sub.

Personally, I just build a box to what I feel would be good, then fine tune the port afterwards. But I have been building boxes since 1992.

I would put the subs on the passenger side and the port on the driver side, make the port as high as the box (12" if the box is 12" high) Then do the width about 10" and length of 16". Then I would shrink the port area or length as I see fit.

Or I would use a 10 or 12" round flared port and adjust the length to fine tune.

This is how I build sometimes and it always works for me.

i m wanting 140+ but i want it to sound good

[uhoh_45]

Edited November 29, 2008 by uhoh_45

[Boon]

That's a huge ass port... probably beyond the realistic maximum size you could have for those subs. I don't think it would provide sufficient loading on the back of the cone.

[uhoh_45]

100 square inchs of port