killallblue Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 (edited) Oo.. Edited October 4, 2010 by killallblue
danemoor Posted October 3, 2010 Report Posted October 3, 2010 I have a 99 sunfire with: Alpine ida-x100 headunit 2 12"JL audio subs KAC-X10D amp Factory door speakers which i"m going to change to a 6 1/2 mid and tweet plus i just got a Audiobahn AEQ 6Q Where could i change in your opinion?
mosthated89 Posted October 4, 2010 Report Posted October 4, 2010 hey i have a problem with my system... i have a jl audio 1000/1 amp and 3 jl w3 12's. and my power wire keeps melting... i have the fuse on the inside of the truck.. and the power wire keeps melting right at the fuse block but its not blowing the fuse. its like melted the whole fuse block. and its the side closest to the amp. so its when the power is coming out of the fuse block. any ideas guys?
Audio Wolf 165 Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 Hey meade i've got an older orion hcca and its underrated at 2000 watts rms do u think it would be smart to put a factory referb hifonics 1500 titan mono block stable at 1 ohm on it?? or any one for that matter any feed back would be nice.
Audio Wolf 165 Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 hey i have a problem with my system... i have a jl audio 1000/1 amp and 3 jl w3 12's. and my power wire keeps melting... i have the fuse on the inside of the truck.. and the power wire keeps melting right at the fuse block but its not blowing the fuse. its like melted the whole fuse block. and its the side closest to the amp. so its when the power is coming out of the fuse block. any ideas guys? its possible that you have a high voltage battery and your alt is relativly high as well and they are trying to push more power through than the fuse block can handle causing it to get hot and melt.
JBERK Posted October 20, 2010 Report Posted October 20, 2010 I'm planning on having my Ranger having about 2200ish RMS watts and around 4500 watts max, what's going to be the best electrical system? I'm all ready planning a 270-300 amp alternator, but what type/how many batterys would you go with? And what size wire? i'm thinking 1/0 all around and 2 extra batteries plus the 1 in the hood?
Feind Posted October 21, 2010 Report Posted October 21, 2010 Hi , I just recieved a pair of T252-s Components. They look beatiful btw. Now my problem is that when i want the tweeter to snap in place to the "Flush Mount" only one site goes all the way down and fits correctly. I tried to push a little bit more Power on the other side but it just doesnt want to fit correctly. My Question is: Did you notice any of theese Problems before too ? What should i do to mount i proparly and not to damage the speaker ? Thx Greatings from Germany Munich City
n8ball2013 Posted October 21, 2010 Report Posted October 21, 2010 twist the tweeter so that the wires will match up with the space maybe? THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
Feind Posted October 21, 2010 Report Posted October 21, 2010 First off.. Thanks for your fast reply. For Sure I twisted to Tweet to the right wire position.. So I saw that the little "Beauty Ring" gives a strong hold to the whole Tweeter when its mounted. Didn't tried that before.. (Shame on me ) So far everything is fine now. Thanks anyways !
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