Help Me Tune My Amp Pic Inside

[audiofanaticz]

If its a hifonics bxi1608, they claim to do 1600 watts rms @ 1 ohm. BUT... They are the entry level Hifonics amps and are slightly overrate, meaning they dont do full RMS power. Your amp will actully put out 1300-1500 watts rms @ 1 ohm if your electrical system is up to par (IE: 1/0awg power wire, nice deepcylce batteries (optimas or better) a higher output alternator).

The amps are fused at 140 amps (two 70 amp fuses). Your main power wire running from front battery to the back should be fused at 150 amps.

If you have a 2nd battery in your trunk by the amp, you maybe able to get away with a 100 amp fuse up front. The reason for this is because current is going to flow the route with the least possible resistance. If there is a battery 1 foot away from the amp it will tend to suck most its power from that rear battery before sucking juice from the front battery and alternator. The most likely your alternator will keep your front & rear battery maintained/charged while the amp draws most its power from the rear battery.

But if you are running a 2nd amp in the back for something such as your mids and tweets, and its running off the same main power wire that runs front to back, you may need more fusing on that wire to acomadate that 2nd amp.

[01 S-10]

If its a hifonics bxi1608, they claim to do 1600 watts rms @ 1 ohm. BUT... They are the entry level Hifonics amps and are slightly overrate, meaning they dont do full RMS power. Your amp will actully put out 1300-1500 watts rms @ 1 ohm if your electrical system is up to par (IE: 1/0awg power wire, nice deepcylce batteries (optimas or better) a higher output alternator).

The amps are fused at 140 amps (two 70 amp fuses). Your main power wire running from front battery to the back should be fused at 150 amps.

If you have a 2nd battery in your trunk by the amp, you maybe able to get away with a 100 amp fuse up front. The reason for this is because current is going to flow the route with the least possible resistance. If there is a battery 1 foot away from the amp it will tend to suck most its power from that rear battery before sucking juice from the front battery and alternator. The most likely your alternator will keep your front & rear battery maintained/charged while the amp draws most its power from the rear battery.

But if you are running a 2nd amp in the back for something such as your mids and tweets, and its running off the same main power wire that runs front to back, you may need more fusing on that wire to acomadate that 2nd amp.

that amp has two 80 amp fuses

[eliassami5]

ive got the HiFonics 1208D and the numbers on the gain knob are nowhere near correct. On mine you have to turn the gain to about 75% for it to read 10V and then after that the volts start increasing exponentially, so im running 2 subs at a final impedance of 4 ohms and i had to set my voltage at 27v, when the volt meter finally read 27 volts the knob was at about 90%...so in short, dont rely on the numbers printed around the knob.

OH and also one more important step..dont forget to connect your bass knob and turn it up to about 75%-100% before you do any settings with the gain knob, you can set the bass knob at 100% and do your settings from there but i did it at 75% so i can have some play with how loud i wanted the subs so be.

Keep your phase at 0, your subsonic at 35hz for a sealed or 10-15hz for a ported box, your low pass would depend what kind of sub you have and the box you are running. And keep your Bass EQ a 0

[Guest Fi-Beat-Down]

Its a 1606 d.... does that change anything ?

a fi 10" bl fully loaded.

i don't have a KNOB anymore it looks to have messed up, it gives my bad static feedback ill order a new one ONCE i can FIND one, a hfr - 3.

can anyone help and give me overall clock style readings i should set it at. like 10 o clock position for example

[duct_tape123]

No, do what bangin caddy said. You should have at least a 150 amp fuse on your power wire. And eliassami5 you have the subsonic backwards, it should be lower for sealed than ported. A sealed box can control the cone movement better because the pressure of the air inside the box. A ported box cannot do this as well because it is "open", and its up to the suspension of the sub to control the cone movement.

[Guest Fi-Beat-Down]

No, do what bangin caddy said. You should have at least a 150 amp fuse on your power wire. And eliassami5 you have the subsonic backwards, it should be lower for sealed than ported. A sealed box can control the cone movement better because the pressure of the air inside the box. A ported box cannot do this as well because it is "open", and its up to the suspension of the sub to control the cone movement.

so use a 150 or so? ok got that,

Im using a prebuit box, its was the one that come with the old 10" type r's all funny shaped, sucks ass.

I dont HAVE a bass knob, it broke,

i cant find any HFR- 3

now my amp knobs are at

LEVEL - 2 o-clock position

PHASE - 0 -

BASS EQ - 2- o-clock position

SUB SONIC - 3 - o-clock position

LOW PASS - 9 - o-clock position

is this wrong ?????????????????????

[duct_tape123]

That seems to be right, but I can't tell because I can't personally hear the system. As long as the sub isn't burning hot or sounding distorted you should be fine. Did you ever find out what your pre-out voltage was?

[Guest Fi-Beat-Down]

That seems to be right, but I can't tell because I can't personally hear the system. As long as the sub isn't burning hot or sounding distorted you should be fine. Did you ever find out what your pre-out voltage was?

RMS Power Output 22 watts

Peak Output 50 watts

CEA Compliant No

RMS Power Bandwidth 50-15kHz

Preamp Outputs 6-channel

Sub Preamp Outputs Yes

Preamp Voltage 2.2 volts

Display Color Organic EL

Key Button Color Red

EQ Bands 3

Sound Shaping Type Easy EQ/EQ-EX

[Guest Fi-Beat-Down]

2.2 on the pre amp

[duct_tape123]

Everything looks good then.