dmanson Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 Since your running dual 1ohm subs I'd stick with a single amp setup and go with the T2K. Running a pair of T1Ks, the amps will see closer to 2ohms and you won't get full power out of them. so you're saying he should get the T20001bd and run it below 1 ohm? although we know that's not recommended. 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 Man I would have JUMPED on that deal!!! I think I'm going to stick with the T10001bds. Knowing me I'll end upgrading my subs soon, so having 2 powerful amps will make it easier. I got my T10001bd from HDA. Refurb for $360 with 2 year warranty. Going to get the other one from them also. yeh i should have jumped on that deal, i'm still slapping myself in the face. at the time i was only running two T1 12s and wanted a bigger amp than the 98/99 model punch 800@2. i wanted the T20001bd so bad instead of the T10001bs. i caught the 1500d pretty cheap so i went with that, only for my homie at the store to give me a good deal on some T2 12s ($250/per sub), so heck i upgraded and then i knew i needed more than one 1500d for those .............. so my man couldn't get any T20001bds in as he say he couldn't. so heck i caught another 1500d and went from there with running each sub on it's own amp and it slams quite well. i'd still want the dvc 2s so i could get each amp down to 1 ohm and it's a wrap. 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_black10 Posted July 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 Since your running dual 1ohm subs I'd stick with a single amp setup and go with the T2K. Running a pair of T1Ks, the amps will see closer to 2ohms and you won't get full power out of them. I thought about that after I got this amp so I hook one of the subs up to it @ 1.4ohms and it pounded. So although the amp is not putting out it's full power, it's putting out more than enough to push 1 Q18 at 1.4ohms, which is 1000rms. Almost all the birthsheets I've seen on the T10001bd put out over 1000rms @ 2ohms anyway so it would be a perfect match. Plus if I upgrade (2 BLs or 4 SSD 18s) one day , I won't have to worry about getting any more amps. AudioControlRockford FosgateXSPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick824 Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 so you're saying he should get the T20001bd and run it below 1 ohm? although we know that's not recommended.What I'm saying is that even though they are technically .7ohm coils, they still tend to read 1ohm at the amp therefore the reason they're still considered dual 1ohm coils. That means if he runs a single T2K it'll see 1ohm and then there is always box rise to consider. As the subs & amp warm up it'll see more than a 1ohm load and he'll be fine. I thought about that after I got this amp so I hook one of the subs up to it @ 1.4ohms and it pounded. So although the amp is not putting out it's full power, it's putting out more than enough to push 1 Q18 at 1.4ohms, which is 1000rms.Thats what ultimately counts. If your happy with how it sounds then its all good. But if you care about how it meters and want the most bang for your buck then the T2K is the way to go.On another note, I use to run a Hifonics BX2005D and swapped it for a RF T1K. It metered exactly the same but sounds so much better after the swap. I don't know any other way to explain other than it simply has better SQ now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_black10 Posted July 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 Well I ordered my other T10001bd and it should be here Wed.!!! Today I re-did the Big 3. I had previously done it with 4 gauge, so I upgraded it to 1/0 gauge. I also took my red tops out until I get everything wired up and put my old Duralast back in. + From the Alt to the Batt - From the engine block to the frame Now all I've got to do is finish the wiring in the back and I should be BUMPN' by next weekend!!! AudioControlRockford FosgateXSPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonw30 Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 good to hear.nice job on the wiring. 2002 nissan frontier crewcab eclipse cd2000 mb quart prem's fr&rear rf p4004 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getmoney Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 did u put a fuse on the positive wire from the alt to the battery? If so why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_black10 Posted July 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 did u put a fuse on the positive wire from the alt to the battery? If so why? Nope, I didn't!!! I just got a fuse on the positive going to the back under the hood. AudioControlRockford FosgateXSPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierra mist Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 That Duralast don't look to bad under there bro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 J, looks clean man. Nice upgrade from 4 guage to 1/0. Can't wait till that other amp arrives Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.