dr hypothesis Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 Going to be starting my build for 2 BTL 18s here in a few weeks. Going to be running a Memphis 4kw on the pair. I have an Iraggi 200amp alt already in and have 5 Yellow Tops. I had this same electrical setup with my previous build and had some voltage issues, so I'm thinking I didn't have it wired properly. Before I had 2 runs of 0ga from front batt + to the bank, and I just grounded the bank to the car. Would it be better to have 2 runs +, 2 runs - front to back and also ground the bank to the car? As far as under the hood, I have a 0ga going from alt to batt +, only 1 0ga ground on the front batt. I believe I should also put a ground on the alt? And maybe another 0 ga ground on front batt? Quote 2001 Chevy Impala Eclipse CD7200 mkii Cactus Sounds 5kw Sundown 100.4 (2) Fi BTL 18s (walled) ID 6.5s (2 sets) Iraggi 320 amp Alt XS Power Batts KnuKonceptz Wiring MidwestSPL Scores: 152.0 Advanced 2 136.1 Extreme 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehoe92 Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 Going to be starting my build for 2 BTL 18s here in a few weeks. Going to be running a Memphis 4kw on the pair. I have an Iraggi 200amp alt already in and have 5 Yellow Tops. I had this same electrical setup with my previous build and had some voltage issues, so I'm thinking I didn't have it wired properly.Before I had 2 runs of 0ga from front batt + to the bank, and I just grounded the bank to the car. Would it be better to have 2 runs +, 2 runs - front to back and also ground the bank to the car? As far as under the hood, I have a 0ga going from alt to batt +, only 1 0ga ground on the front batt. I believe I should also put a ground on the alt? And maybe another 0 ga ground on front batt? Yeah the more runs you have the more power! And yes you need to ground the alt. Its always safer running - back to the front instead of grounding to the chassis but both work. Don't forget to fuse though. Can't wait to see videos of it pounding Quote Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 (edited) Yeah the more runs you have the more power!And yes you need to ground the alt. Its always safer running - back to the front instead of grounding to the chassis but both work. Don't forget to fuse though. Can't wait to see videos of it pounding That is wrong. You are not 'gaining' power by running more wires. You are reducing the impedance and 'allowing' more current to flow unrestricted. It is safe either way. All you are doing by running a negative wire is guaranteeing a closed circuit. The chassis is fine. Your problem is that you are running yellow top batteries. Unless they are the G31 batts, they are worthless running a 4KW. And your alternator is not powerful enough. The 4KWs draw about 400A at full tilt, and unless you have some powerful batteries, your alternator won't keep up. Take it from a guy who runs 4KWs every day. Edited January 30, 2009 by Neo_frog Quote Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr hypothesis Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 Thought that could be an issue. I've been looking at Powermasters and Kinetiks. I plan on having 800 watts or so on my front stage as well. What would be recommended for batts? Can I get by with just getting different ones for the bank? Quote 2001 Chevy Impala Eclipse CD7200 mkii Cactus Sounds 5kw Sundown 100.4 (2) Fi BTL 18s (walled) ID 6.5s (2 sets) Iraggi 320 amp Alt XS Power Batts KnuKonceptz Wiring MidwestSPL Scores: 152.0 Advanced 2 136.1 Extreme 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh_45 Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 are your yellowtops G31 or G34?? Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr hypothesis Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 are your yellowtops G31 or G34?? G34 I believe. The common one you see in stores, that's the 34 probably? If so, I should of did more research. Live and learn. Quote 2001 Chevy Impala Eclipse CD7200 mkii Cactus Sounds 5kw Sundown 100.4 (2) Fi BTL 18s (walled) ID 6.5s (2 sets) Iraggi 320 amp Alt XS Power Batts KnuKonceptz Wiring MidwestSPL Scores: 152.0 Advanced 2 136.1 Extreme 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh_45 Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 the front ones are G34 and the rear is 31 as you can see the size difference Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr hypothesis Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 the front ones are G34 and the rear is 31 as you can see the size difference Yeah, mine are the rear. This kinda blows. lol Quote 2001 Chevy Impala Eclipse CD7200 mkii Cactus Sounds 5kw Sundown 100.4 (2) Fi BTL 18s (walled) ID 6.5s (2 sets) Iraggi 320 amp Alt XS Power Batts KnuKonceptz Wiring MidwestSPL Scores: 152.0 Advanced 2 136.1 Extreme 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 What neofrog said is correct. Id almost think that if your batteries are in tip top shape, and well maintained they should allow the amp to play for short periods of time without voltage drops. Technically running more wire to compensate for the distance, current draw, and voltage. While running 2 additional sets of ground wires from front to back wont increase your voltage, but however it will help level your voltage out and restore lost voltage that was lost from resistance. An average 17 foot run of decent 1/0 wire will result in a .2 to .4 voltage loss from your front battery to rear battery, cheaper wire a larger increase of coarse. As for which batteries is which, the larger ones have an additional cell, so 7 cells vs 6, easy and quick way to tell them apart. Also how your batteries are connected will play a MAJOR roll in how your batteries charge and release their energy evenly, even when running buss bars this can make a difference. Say you have 3 rear batteries , and your power and ground comming into the batteries is on battery 1, then each additional battery is "daisy chained" off the first battery wont allow for max performance. You are better off to have the your front battery wire ran back to battery 1 of the bank, then have your negative wire connected to battery 3 in the bank, and have your amps positive and negative wires pull current from the middle batteries. Here is a image i made a while ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr hypothesis Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 Yeah, before I could run my system full tilt for a good half hour without any problems. After that the Memphis would heat up. I had a .3 loss from front to back. I can't really afford new batteries right now, so this is pretty frustrating. Quote 2001 Chevy Impala Eclipse CD7200 mkii Cactus Sounds 5kw Sundown 100.4 (2) Fi BTL 18s (walled) ID 6.5s (2 sets) Iraggi 320 amp Alt XS Power Batts KnuKonceptz Wiring MidwestSPL Scores: 152.0 Advanced 2 136.1 Extreme 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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