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Full Ground Runs?


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whats the purpose of running long runs of ground from the front batteries to the back ones... why cant u just run the power and then ground the back batts to the frame of the truck??? maybe im missing something let me know

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whats the purpose of running long runs of ground from the front batteries to the back ones... why cant u just run the power and then ground the back batts to the frame of the truck??? maybe im missing something let me know

well that's a good question. i hear it helps the voltage come back up quicker. could be more to that but i don't have the answer.

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thats what dont make sence, when u hear ppl talk about puttin amps or extra batterys in the car u hear em say "make ur ground as short as possable", but why run ground to front and rear when the frame does pritty much the same thing?

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here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car

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well a good run of 1/0 negative and then grounding the battery(s) at the back always helps. i personnally didn't ground my back batteries but my voltage holds up good.

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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There is a need for ground runs in certain situations. For example, cars with an epoxy glued unibody don't properly carry the ground from front to the rear of the car through the glue joints.

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some cars dont have a "frame" per se, some unibody cars just suck balls for chassis ground.

people like meade who run 1300a of alternators and 10,000cca of battery, the lower resistance afforded by extra runs of power/ground from front to back gives you a bit of voltage (like .1-.4 extra volts, which probably gets him like 1000watts extra) and keeps everything working together better.

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In most unibody cars, you will have issues with ground loops and ground continuity through the entire body due to small spot welds and gaps being filled with seam sealer, the full runs are to ensure that there is a common ground source being ran through out the entire vehicle from the generation of the power at the front battery and alternator to the back where the amperage pull will be from the amplifiers and to any auxillary batteries.

This is the case in almot any car made anymore or truck being that full seam welding which creates a better greound path through the vehicle is time consuming and inturn raises vehicle costs for the manufacturer.

Raytard beat me to my explination and said the same thing basically damnit lol

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ive personally only done it on maybe 5 cars, 3 of which was to eliminate ground noise (i think it was a camry, a suzuki aerio, and some other cheaper unibody imports)

its a lot of extra work and materials to use if you dont have a need for it (fix ground noise or need every last fraction of a volt possible)

Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build

monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now)

Team DC

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